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Otto's Route-Monument
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By rich mcfadden
From loveland,co
Sep 20, 2010

Ok all you Otto regulars, when I make it to the crux bulge at top and possibly wimp out, can we rap from below after possibly down climbing? I do hope to just make the move of course, but just in case...


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By Michael Schneiter
From Glenwood Springs, CO
Sep 20, 2010
Goofin' on the Grand after soloing the Upper Exum with my wife.

There's a rap station below the final pitch but you can make the move. Just French free the @#$% out of it if you have to!


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By Crisco Jackass
From Grand Junction, CO
Sep 21, 2010

You can do it! Seriously, consider getting to the top by any means you can, it's a great summit. Keep in mind the style of the FA. ;)


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By portercassidy
From UT/CO
Sep 21, 2010
Deep in a slot canyon, somewhere on the colorado plateau

There is a good #2 placement on the ramp before getting to the drilled angles. After that clip 2 drilled angles and go straight up. Forget about the last one underneath the roof. Besides adding rope drag, clipping the last one puts you in the wrong position to mantle up.

You can do it!


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By Nathan McBride
From Fort Collins
Sep 21, 2010
Top of the final pitch (4th) of Otto's Route.  Exposed and a little burly but great holds the whole way. Beautiful place.

You can rap but I'm going to echo the community here. Do the moves, the lip is a HUGE jug (in fact, I think its my profile pic). If you can do the 1st & 2nd pitch, the last one should be no problem, if anything focus on your head. A smooth, steady breathe has always pulled me out of the cloud of anxiety.


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By rob rebel
From Denver, co
Sep 21, 2010
I get excited over a large desert rack

You can rap from below. but you can definetly clean aid the crux if you cannot do it. One of my friends actually set up aiders (ladder) at the top once for some people and they made it up no problem. There are pins there and if you reach over the roof you can grab one of ottos pipes. Good luck. It is a great summit :)


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By Andrew Gram
Administrator
From Salt Lake City, UT
Sep 21, 2010
Andrew Gram

I'm not a very good free climber and I went up there fully expecting to french free, but the moves were easy enough that I wasn't tempted to pull on draws. If you need to, it would be very easy to french free though.


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By YDPL8S
From Santa Monica, Ca.
Sep 21, 2010
Korea 1 1975

Groveling for big jugs, you started to learn how to do that at puberty. You can do it! :-)


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By Rschap
From Grand Junction, CO
Sep 25, 2010

I've climbed it about ten times now almost always with newbies and I've never had anyone not make it. Most recently I took a guy up that had only climbed a couple of times in our gym before going up. He struggled but made it.


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By prod.
From Boulder, Co
Sep 27, 2010

It's a 1 move wonder with gear at your hips. I brought a #2 (purple) Lowe tricam for the drilled pockets. 2 of those and a small standard rack and you can sew the thing up.

Prod.


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By Jhawk
From Greenville, SC
Sep 27, 2010

How would the temps be during the first week of November? I hear that this route doesn't receive much direct sun and might be chilly. Accurate assessment?


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By Ed Wright
Sep 27, 2010
Magic Ed

That move is not hard. Just go for it and you'll be fine.


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By Skyeler Congdon
From his van
Sep 27, 2010
mongolia

John Neathawk wrote:
How would the temps be during the first week of November? I hear that this route doesn't receive much direct sun and might be chilly. Accurate assessment?


It might be a bit chilly. Unless you plan on moving really fast, it might not be super fun that late in the year. There will be no direct sun for the first three pitches. The final pitch will be sunny most of the day. But its not out of the question. Personally, I would probably wait (actually I would do sundial that time of year instead;) "But there is no such thing as bad weather, just inappropriate clothing"

November WOULD be a pleasant time for the approach, though. If you are up for it, I would say get on Desert Solitaire in November.


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By coop
From Glenwood Springs, CO
Oct 1, 2010
Indian Creek Climbing

downclimbing that would suck, just pull on your gear (french free) if you have to


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By rick gardiner
From Grand Junction, CO,
Oct 1, 2010
Rick

Early november should be fine as far as temps go. If it is cold you can do the Chimneywww.mountainproject.com/v/colorado/grand_junction/colorado_n>>> on the south, sunny side!


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By PTZ
From Chicago/Colorado
Oct 1, 2010
Where? Wouldn't you like to know. You have to buy me a beer, then I will tell you.

There is always the option of bringing long slings and standing in them to pass the last bulge. There is a fat pipe up there you can grab hold of if need be. I have seen people downclimb that section when the winds hit, that was before the first drilled piton. Climbing is about leaving your comfort zone at times. The holds are there, it is well protected and it only lasts a few moves. Make sure you have a good belayer and once you get to the verticle section and clip that angle you are home free homey.Good luck -Peace and Soul


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