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Routes in Monument Canyon
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Big Bertha T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Big Foot T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Carter Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Circle, Square, and the Triangle S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Crispy Corner V-easy 3 |
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Da Nada 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b C3- |
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Desert Solitaire T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c C0 |
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Egypt Rock - The Revolution Will Not be Televised T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Elephant Head T,S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Euro Route T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Friends Can't Be Trusted S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Get A Life T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Higher Mind Dynamics S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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It Ain't Over Til It's Loose T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Left Dihedral aka Dihedral 1 aka First Dihedral T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Luhr's Route aka Right Dihedral T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Monolith Spire - Dewar Dihedral T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Mormon Tea T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Otto's Ladder T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Out of the Frying Pan Into the Fire T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Pharaoh Point - Chimney Wide T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C2 R |
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Pina Colada V2 5+ |
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Route 2 T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Route 4 T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Short Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Snake Eyes V1 5 |
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Unknown Tower - Northwest Face T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R |
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Wide Load AKA Industrial Strength T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Wide Load aka Route 3 T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Wingate Warrior S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Wizard I T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
| Unsorted Routes: | |
| Type: | Trad, 70 ft (21 m) |
| FA: | John Otto |
| Page Views: | 3,173 total · 18/month |
| Shared By: | Bill Duncan on Aug 17, 2009 |
| Admins: | Jesse Zacher, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Description
In the early 1900s, a man named John Otto chose what is now the Colorado National Monument as his home. The area was preserved as a national monument in 1911 largely through his efforts. He worked tirelessly building trails, roads, cabins, and ladders. Many are familiar with the pipe ladder that he pioneered up Independence Monument, now known as Otto's Route, but fewer know about another piece of history in Monument Canyon to the east. Otto was looking for a faster way to get up and down from the northern arm of Monument Mesa, and so built another pipe ladder for this purpose. This ladder is still largely in place and can be climbed to the top with relative safety. Some of the pipes are missing, but the holes remain, and there are carved steps, enabling progress to the next pipe. This is a fun, interactive, history exploration. For a nice loop, climb up this ladder, and then hike across the mesa to the south and climb down the other Otto ladder into Gold Star Canyon and back to the car.
Location
Park at the White Rocks/Gold Star Canyon trailhead. Hike up to the east side of Mushroom Rock, and look for the most logical, shortest cliff behind and to the left of the rock. Red arrow on the map. Navigate up through the benches to the base of the route. Bushwhacking is mandatory.
The descent rappel is on the east side of the mesa, where old slings may still be present around a tree. Bring 2 ropes. Black arrow on the map. OR hike south to Gold Star Canyon, and descend the other Otto ladder for a nice loop.
Protection
A selection of slings are needed, medium to long, about a dozen. These are employed to tie off the pipes with a lark's head knot for protection. Don't pull the loose rods out of the holes lest they become even shallower. The best belay is either the last two pipes or if you brought more gear, you may be able to find something up and to the left in the choss. Bigger pieces are then advised.
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