|Many Pines Buttress
A squeeze job that is quite distinct and fun between routes "Jamboree" to the left and "Sewing Machine" to the right. The strict start (according to Mr Altay) is to pull V2 bolder problem at the start (On Ramp) onto ledge 12 feet up "Sewing Machine" route. Off the ledge pull slight sharp rib is if a layback then face holds to the top. Use the nice side pull slots with the left hand that rim upwards the right margin of the "Jamboree" route.
Route 105 (unamed) page 121 in "Climber's Guide to Devil's Lake" Edition 3. It has been labeled "Ottobahn" in reference to Erol Altay's driving habits. Add this to the list of good 5.9s at the DL that can be protected pretty well on lead.
Small wires and smallest to large finger sized cams.
|By Erol Altay|
Sep 29, 2012
Nice Job Burt. However, the correct name is Ottobahn, in reference to my Turkish backround. This would have been a first installment in what my wife calls Erol's C.L.A.P. These are routes that don't exist in the guidebooks, are not presently claimed by anyone as having been done, and have in all certainty been done back in the day.
|By Tony Brengosz|
Oct 2, 2012
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a PG13
This is a pretty good route, and I wouldn't even call it a squeeze job. Don't let it's location back in the corner keep you from getting on it.
|By Burt Lindquist|
From: Madison, WI
Oct 3, 2012
"A squeeze job that is quite distinct and fun"... I did try to highlight the legit dinstinct position of moves of this climb. I think I meant to use that term more within the context of the MP.com database.... look .. there is a climb that indeed exists between these other two established routes.
|By Erol Altay|
Oct 8, 2012
If you want a squeeze, do the right side of the wall without using the right crack. With the boulder start that goes at 11a. Call it "Fast Lane".