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 ADVANCED
Otter Cliffs

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Flake, The T,TR 
A Dare by the Sea T,TR 
Alcove TR 
Barnacle Baits TR 
Black Crack T 
Brochure Crack TR 
Cakewalk TR 
Child's Play TR 
Chockstone Chimney TR 
Choppy Seas TR 
Cliff Traverse 
Climb of the Ancient Mariner TR 
Coppertone TR 
Crucifix TR 
Deep Blue Sea TR 
Dike Route TR 
Drunken Sailor T 
Easy Corner T,TR 
Ebb and Flow TR 
Engel Arete T,TR 
Fisherman's Folly TR 
Gallery Arete T 
Gallery, The TR 
Great Chimney, The TR 
Greenway TR 
Greybeard TR 
Guillemot Crack T 
Guillotine T,TR 
In The Groove T,TR 
Inner Sanctum TR 
Jamcrack T,TR 
Lady Luck TR 
Maine Central TR 
Mermaid TR 
Mystic, The TR 
Nerve Damage TR 
Open Book TR 
Otter Point TR 
Out to Sea TR 
Outer Face TR 
Overhanging Corner T,TR 
Peak Performance T,TR 
Plaque Crack TR 
Razorback TR 
Rising Tide TR 
Rock Lobster TR 
Rolling Swells TR 
Seabreeze TR 
Seafarer TR 
Small Cove Problem 
Sober Seaman T 
Spray Deck TR 
Staircase TR 
Starfish TR 
State of Maine TR 
Submariner TR 
Summer Camp Corner TR 
Swing Time TR 
Tap Dance TR 
Wave Action TR 
White Horses TR 
Whitecaps TR 
Wiessner Route TR 
Wonder Wall TR 
Wonderwall - Left TR 
Wounderwall - Right TR 
Yellow Wall T,TR 
Zephyr TR 
Unsorted Routes:

Otter Cliffs  


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 44.31194, -68.18919 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 42,191
Administrators: Ladd, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Ladd on Apr 20, 2007  with updates from Ron Birk and 1 more
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Description 

Most famous and heavily used climbing area in Acadia. Toprope or rappel in to climb here.

Anchors are solid steel bars pounded into the top of the cliff because years of toproping here has killed many trees.

Excellent place for beginners to learn about climbing, the beauty of nature, and placing gear in a wet crack.

Beware high tides as your ropes will get soaked and your gear will be salt encrusted. the rock that the routes start on just gets underwater at the highest tide points.

Getting There 

East side of Acadia National Park. Follow signs to Otter Cliffs, park and cross road towards ocean to find cliffs below you.

Climbing Season



Weather station 12.0 miles from here

68 Total Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',18],['2 Stars',14],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',13],['5.7',13],['5.8',12],['5.9',11],['5.10',10],['5.11',5],['5.12',2],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',1],['V2-3',1],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Otter Cliffs:
Chockstone Chimney   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a     TR, 50'   
In The Groove   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a     Trad, TR, 55'   
The Great Chimney   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a     TR, 60'   
Overhanging Corner   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, TR, 50'   
Easy Corner   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, TR, 60'   
The Flake   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60'   
Wonderwall - Left   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     TR, 1 pitch, 50'   
Wounderwall - Right   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     TR, 1 pitch, 50'   
Deep Blue Sea   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     TR, 1 pitch, 40'   
Black Crack   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   
Yellow Wall   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 50'   
Wonder Wall   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     TR, 50'   
Rock Lobster   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     TR, 1 pitch, 60'   
Drunken Sailor   5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   
Guillotine   5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 40'   
Peak Performance   5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b     Trad, TR, 60'   
Outer Face   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     TR, 40'   
A Dare by the Sea   5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60'   
Starfish   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     TR, 1 pitch, 40'   
The Gallery   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     TR, 1 pitch, 60'   
Browse More Classics in Otter Cliffs

Featured Route For Otter Cliffs
Rock Lobster

Rock Lobster 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a  ME : Acadia National Park : Otter Cliffs
Climb up good edges and horizontals up the face right of a chimney to a small roof. Pull the roof and lie-back up a thin left leaning corner....[more]   Browse More Classics in ME

Photos of Otter Cliffs Slideshow Add Photo
Belay
Belay
Oh fun times
Oh fun times
Historic photo .April 1971 . P.Ross and other on t...
Historic photo .April 1971 . P.Ross and other on t...
Otter Cliffs. First climb. 1995.   Photo: Pasquale...
Otter Cliffs. First climb. 1995. Photo: Pasquale...
Otter Cliffs - Sun, rock, surf, puffins and comedi...
Otter Cliffs - Sun, rock, surf, puffins and comedi...
My first climb ever. Hanging on! 1995.   Photo: Pa...
My first climb ever. Hanging on! 1995. Photo: Pa...
Some folks sitting atop Wonder Wall.
Some folks sitting atop Wonder Wall.
One of the staples on Otter cliffs
BETA PHOTO: One of the staples on Otter cliffs
Otter Cliffs Topo
BETA PHOTO: Otter Cliffs Topo
Our first top rope of Wonder Wall. An amazing clim...
Our first top rope of Wonder Wall. An amazing clim...

Comments on Otter Cliffs Add Comment
Show which comments
By Echoinfi
Jul 20, 2008
On the night of 7/15 under heavy seas the following routes fell into the ocean.

Black Crack, 5.8
Rip Tide, 5.11
Razor Flake, 5.8

The park service and some local climbers are cleaning up face. It should be ready by next spring. The rest of Otter Cliffs is still in good condition.
By USBRIT
From: Keswick Cumbria.UK
Jan 25, 2009
Around 1969/70 with Mike Peloquin and Steve Devlin ( my OB assistants) on request from Maine Outward Bound School we opened up Otter cliffs with about 14 new climbs from around 5.5 to 5.10.... some for our own personal fun, the more moderate ones for the use of students. The only sign of any activity ( as most climbs had some loose rock) was a piton in the easy chimney behind the climb that is now called Rock Lobster.Still have dated slides of some of these ascents one being the obvious Rock Lobster.
By Jeremy K
Aug 17, 2009
Otter Cliffs is a Top-Managed climbing site. If you don't know how to safely belay off the anchor, or how to rig some of the anchors, PLEASE seek qualified instruction. There have been a number of accidents and near misses as a result of inappropriate belay/anchor techniques.
By Chris Grosshans
Oct 2, 2011
Not all of the climbs have anchors at the top. There are bars and I-bolts near 'In The Groove', 'Wonder wall' and immediately surrounding climbs. If you want to climb elsewhere bring a light rack to build your own anchors.
By YesOnPie
Jul 14, 2015
Is lowering in or rappeling required to get to the ledge below? I'm trying to bring a new climber here and would like to avoid it if possible.
By rlmoody2012
Aug 21, 2015
Brought my son here for his birthday to climb with Acadia Climbing School. It was a blast and Mark our guide was awesome. If you're new to climbing like us, it was a great experience.
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