Mountain Project: Climbing Acadia National Park

Some folks sitting atop Wonder Wall.

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Otter Cliffs:

The Groove 5.5 Trad, TR, 55 feet

The Great Chimney 5.5 TR, 60 feet

Chockstone Chimney 5.5 TR, 50 feet

Overhanging Corner 5.6 Trad, TR, 50 feet

Wonderwall - Left 5.7 TR, 1 pitch, 50 feet

Wounderwall - Right 5.7 TR, 1 pitch, 50 feet

The Flake 5.7 Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60 feet

Black Crack 5.8 Trad, 1 pitch, 60 feet

Yellow Wall 5.8 Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 50 feet

Rock Lobster 5.9 TR, 1 pitch, 60 feet

Wonder Wall 5.9 TR, 50 feet

Peak Performance 5.10a/b Trad, TR, 60 feet

Guillotine 5.10a/b Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 40 feet

Inner Sanctum 5.10 TR, 1 pitch, 40 feet

Outer Face 5.10 TR, 40 feet

A Dare by the Sea 5.10b/c PG13 Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60 feet

The Gallery 5.12a TR, 1 pitch, 60 feet

Featured Route For Otter Cliffs

Guillotine 5.10a/b ME : Acadia National Park : Otter Cliffs

Follow the wide crack using faceholds and intermittent thin cracks to the upper dihedral crux. After a funky move or two to get the lieback, move slightly left into the roof and finish with a fantastic overhanging traverse to the right....[more] Browse More Classics in ME

Photos of Otter Cliffs

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Otter Cliffs - Sun, rock, surf, puffins and comedi...	Oh fun times	Historic photo .April 1971 . P.Ross and other on t...
Belay	BETA PHOTO: Otter Cliffs Topo	My first climb ever. Hanging on! 1995. Photo: Pa...
Otter Cliffs. First climb. 1995. Photo: Pasquale...	BETA PHOTO: One of the staples on Otter cliffs	Austin rappelling down

Comments on Otter Cliffs

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By Echoinfi
Jul 20, 2008

On the night of 7/15 under heavy seas the following routes fell into the ocean.

Black Crack, 5.8
Rip Tide, 5.11
Razor Flake, 5.8

The park service and some local climbers are cleaning up face. It should be ready by next spring. The rest of Otter Cliffs is still in good condition.

By USBRIT
Jan 25, 2009

Around 1969/70 with Mike Peloquin and Steve Devlin ( my OB assistants) on request from Maine Outward Bound School we opened up Otter cliffs with about 14 new climbs from around 5.5 to 5.10.... some for our own personal fun, the more moderate ones for the use of students. The only sign of any activity ( as most climbs had some loose rock) was a piton in the easy chimney behind the climb that is now called Rock Lobster.Still have dated slides of some of these ascents one being the obvious Rock Lobster.

By Jeremy K
Aug 17, 2009

Otter Cliffs is a Top-Managed climbing site. If you don't know how to safely belay off the anchor, or how to rig some of the anchors, PLEASE seek qualified instruction. There have been a number of accidents and near misses as a result of inappropriate belay/anchor techniques.

By Chris Grosshans
Oct 2, 2011

Not all of the climbs have anchors at the top. There are bars and I-bolts near 'In The Groove', 'Wonder wall' and immediately surrounding climbs. If you want to climb elsewhere bring a light rack to build your own anchors.

Otter Cliffs

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