Otro Dia Otro Largo (another day another pitch)
||Trad, Aid, 9 pitches, 1500', Grade IV
|Consensus: || YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b A1 [details]|
|FA: ||Francisco Parada, Clayton Laramie|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Season: ||January to March - ish|
|Page Views: ||1,868|
|Submitted By: ||claramie on Mar 23, 2009|
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just clip the broken pencil-sized root and then de...
Start with Genesis (2P, 120m, 5.9) to the big roof.
P1 (Genesis). 70m+. Belayer should start 15 meters up the ramp. Climb 5.9 for a whole 60m rope to the 2 bolt anchor.
P2 (Genesis). 40m. Continue up the crack system to 5 meters under the roof. Two bolt anchor. 5.9
P3. 30m. Traverse the roof right (fixed pin half way) to a 2 bolt anchor. On the FA it was A1. We think it will go at 5.11 after a bit more cleaning. 30m
P4. 55m. Go straight up past a ledge and continue up a left-facing corner with a little offwidth. Fight the tree and pull through the bulge/roof boulder to the ledge above and a 2 bolt anchor. On the FA it was A1. Will go clean mainly at 5.9 with a hard move at the end to gain the belay ledge.
P5. 60m. Take the overhanging, left-facing corner off the belay. When it turns vertical move right past the only progress bolt on the route to the offwidth / chimney system and continue to the 2 bolt anchor. 5.10/5.11 or A1. Note: We had to climb the offwidth grass mound / tree combo straight up but highly recommend the left variation now that it is cleaned. A lot safer and better climbing.
P6. 55m. Climb up the chimney system (probably pretty wet) using a combination of offwidth and stemming technique. Place a poor #3 camalot (which apparently holds falls) at the top and pull the overhang at 5.10?(or A1 off a sketchy hook). Hopefully for you the left wall isn't coursing water when you try this pitch (highly recommend waiting 1+ day after rain). 2 bolt anchor. 5.10 A1.
P7. 55m. Continue up the chimney system, offwidth climbing and stemming. Again, hope this is dry for you. Look for the fixed knife blade where nothing else will go in. Recommend a screamer. Continue to anchor of 2 bolts (and a fixed pin if you like).
P8. 60m. Continue straight up the crack systems to the left of the anchor. Easier climbing but poorly protected. I placed 5 pieces on the whole pitch. A #6 camalot up higher was the only good piece I got on this pitch. Follow to 2 bolt anchor (which is much better than the trees I originally used). 5.6
P9. 60m. Easy but runout climbing. 15 meters off the belay I crammed the smallest 2 C3s in crumbling rock. Climb another 35+ meters above this to your first good piece (#5 camalot, #4 camaot, #3 camalot) on the right side of the huge boulder. Climb this offwidth slot to the summit. Rap from below the summit off the that huge block (equalized to a crappy dead tree).
Pared de las Profetas. This route starts with Genesis to the obvious hugh roof at 120 meters. Traverse the roof right and continue up the main chimney system to the summit. 7 pitches after Genesis.
Doubles of everything. Maybe triples of fingers and new #4 camalot. 1 #5 and 1 #6 might suffice. Also take pins, steps and hooks until this gets a lot cleaner. As always with Cochamo, take your nut tool on lead to clean because there is a lot of gardening to be done to find placements and holds!
horizontal to downward arching roof for 100'... no...
Chino drilling P7 anchor with some crazy clouds ro...
Chino approaching the end of the roof. This shoul...
Chino Parada finishing up the roof pitch on Day 1
Chino Parada starting the roof pitch on Day 1
juggin the first lines on a wet day. yes that wat...
BETA PHOTO: Topo of Otro Dia Otro Largo. Two notes. 1. the f...
Did I mention that there was a LOT of cleaning. Y...
Chino placing the only progress bolt of the route ...
summit shot. now try to get down before the rain
|Comments on Otro Dia Otro Largo (another day another pitch)
By Tyler Overby
Jun 21, 2009
Hey fellas, its Tyler from the minnesota/NC team.
Good work puttin up what looks like a stellar line. Was eyein' that up the whole trip.
You gotta find someone to send that free ground up.
Glad you put in a rap descent for the wall, that took time, effort and supplies we didnt have. Kudos!