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Otis Peak

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Fire Tower 
Forgotten Spire 
Hidden Spire 
Otis Flower Tower 
Otis Power Tower (aka B-day Tower) 
Piton Spire 
Solar Wall, The 
Thrill Tower 

Otis Peak Rock Climbing 

Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 11,000'
Location: 40.2922, -105.6805 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 37,184
Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Cor on Aug 31, 2010
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BETA PHOTO: Otis Peak overview.


Otis Peak is a longish ridge to the north of Loch Vale and goes up to the Continental Divide. It hosts Loch Vale Pinnacle, Wham, Zowie, The Solar Wall, Cosmo, Otis Flower Tower, Fire Tower, the Piton Spire, and The Birthday Tower. Under Otis Peak is the Alva Adams Tunnel that brings water from west to east of the Continental Divide.

Getting There 

From Glacier Gorge, go up to The Loch (~2.7 miles). Skirt the Loch on the right (north) side. Head up right on the Andrews Glacier Trail past Andrews Tarn (~3.5 miles). The first spires you see on the right are Wham and Zowie. Further downhill is the Loch Vale Pinnacle. Next are Solar Wall, Otis Flower Tower, and Piton Spire. Expect 1+ hours for the approach.

Climbing Season

For the RMNP - Rock area.

Weather station 8.3 miles from here

16 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',13],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Otis Peak

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Otis Peak:
One for the Red Team   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, Alpine, 1 pitch   Zowie
South Face   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, Alpine, 7 pitches   Zowie
Piton D'Or (The Golden Piton)   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, Alpine, 5 pitches, 600'   Piton Spire
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Otis Peak

Featured Route For Otis Peak
Rock Climbing Photo: Tracy gearing up to lead P2 up a chimney.

South Face 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c  CO : Alpine Rock : ... : Zowie
The South Face is the standard route on this less-classic cousin of the Petit Grepon with which it's often compared. Although the quality of the climbing isn't as good as that found on the Petit, it's still a worthy objective with a much shorter approach and a beautiful summit. To get to the base of the route, head up towards the left side of the formation, looking for the line of least resistance underneath the prominent chimney system. The first 2 pitches follow this chimney, but it doesn't e...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

Photos of Otis Peak Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The convoluted southern flanks of Otis Peak.
The convoluted southern flanks of Otis Peak.
Rock Climbing Photo: I really liked the other photo by Keen Butterworth...
I really liked the other photo by Keen Butterworth...

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