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Otis Peak

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Cosmo 
Fire Tower 
Otis Flower Tower 
Otis Power Tower (aka B-day Tower) 
Piton Spire 
Solar Wall, The 
Wham 
Zowie 

Otis Peak  


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 11,000'
Location: 40.2922, -105.6805 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 30,798
Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Cor on Aug 31, 2010
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BETA PHOTO: Otis Peak overview.

Description 

Otis Peak is a longish ridge to the north of Loch Vale and goes up to the Continental Divide. It hosts Loch Vale Pinnacle, Wham, Zowie, The Solar Wall, Cosmo, Otis Flower Tower, Fire Tower, the Piton Spire, and The Birthday Tower. Under Otis Peak is the Alva Adams Tunnel that brings water from west to east of the Continental Divide.

Getting There 

From Glacier Gorge, go up to The Loch (~2.7 miles). Skirt the Loch on the right (north) side. Head up right on the Andrews Glacier Trail past Andrews Tarn (~3.5 miles). The first spires you see on the right are Wham and Zowie. Further downhill is the Loch Vale Pinnacle. Next are Solar Wall, Otis Flower Tower, and Piton Spire. Expect 1+ hours for the approach.

Climbing Season



Weather station 8.3 miles from here

13 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',10],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',1],['5.7',1],['5.8',2],['5.9',2],['5.10',6],['5.11',1],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Otis Peak:
One for the Red Team   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, Alpine, 1 pitch   Zowie
South Face   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, Alpine, 7 pitches   Zowie
Piton D'Or (The Golden Piton)   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, Alpine, 5 pitches, 600'   Piton Spire
Browse More Classics in Otis Peak

Featured Route For Otis Peak
This is roughly the line you should follow.  The t...

Solar Arete 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b CO : Alpine Rock : ... : The Solar Wall
The crux of this climb is keeping your head together as you try to:a) find itb) protect itWhile Bernard Gillett does include a write-up and topo for this route in his most recent High-Peaks book, the wall is so featured as to be indistinct. Which one of the 4 'shallow left facing corners' would you choose? Once found, the route requires some focus to protect and climb though we felt that pitches 2-5 were all about 1 letter grade easier than rated. All lengths given here are very approximate, as ...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

Photos of Otis Peak Slideshow Add Photo
The convoluted southern flanks of Otis Peak.
The convoluted southern flanks of Otis Peak.
I really liked the other photo by Keen Butterworth...
I really liked the other photo by Keen Butterworth...

Comments on Otis Peak Add Comment
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By jjjust
Jan 2, 2012
Otis Peak.

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