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5.10b YDS 6a+ French 19 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British R
Avg: 2.1 from 13
votes
Routes in Lower Fin
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Educated Idiot T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Hand Drills Suck! T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Lyin & Cryin T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Other Intentions T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Wasatch Harlem T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, 400 ft (121 m), 5 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | Troy Warburton, John Rogers: 1986 |
| Page Views: | 953 total · 4/month |
| Shared By: | Over The Hill on Sep 25, 2006 |
| Admins: | Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Details
Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
Route Description
Start at the very lowest part of The Fin formation.
Pitch 1: Climb 100 feet up a slab passing three bolts, and gear placements to a two bolt anchor added by Troy Anderson, or continue with original route right of the Hand Drills Suck anchor to an arete on the right with a bolt. make a reachy move to a crack, move up crack for 10 feet, then traverse 15 feet left to a bushy ledge.
Pitch 2: Climb the slab, protected by 5 bolts 5.10. when the bolts end, move left to the ramp that will traverse up and right, and belay at trees.
Pitch 3: Climb crack and face, 5.8 to a belay ledge.
Pitch 4: Climb easy corner face, to an undercling roof. Traverse right under roof, move around edge, and face climb to a belay with a tree.
Pitch 5: Climb up fun face and friction moves. Bolts have been added since First Ascent. Continue climbing to the base of Dorsal Fin.
Pitch 1: Climb 100 feet up a slab passing three bolts, and gear placements to a two bolt anchor added by Troy Anderson, or continue with original route right of the Hand Drills Suck anchor to an arete on the right with a bolt. make a reachy move to a crack, move up crack for 10 feet, then traverse 15 feet left to a bushy ledge.
Pitch 2: Climb the slab, protected by 5 bolts 5.10. when the bolts end, move left to the ramp that will traverse up and right, and belay at trees.
Pitch 3: Climb crack and face, 5.8 to a belay ledge.
Pitch 4: Climb easy corner face, to an undercling roof. Traverse right under roof, move around edge, and face climb to a belay with a tree.
Pitch 5: Climb up fun face and friction moves. Bolts have been added since First Ascent. Continue climbing to the base of Dorsal Fin.
Descent
Pitch 1: 30 meter Rappel from Hand Drills suck anchor
Pitch 2: A two bolt anchor was added mid point of pitch 2, 30 meter rappel will reach Pith 1 anchor.
Pitch 3 and above: continue up climb to Dorsal Fin, walk west
Pitch 2: A two bolt anchor was added mid point of pitch 2, 30 meter rappel will reach Pith 1 anchor.
Pitch 3 and above: continue up climb to Dorsal Fin, walk west
History
This route was bolted onsight/by hand/on lead by Troy Warburton & John Rogers in 1986. Troy Warburton did not place a bolt at the crux and fell onto a chickenhead.
Troy Anderson added a 2-bolt/chain station in 2003.
Tony Calderone & John Rogers added 3 bolts and a 2-bolt/chain station in 2007.
Tony Calderone & John Rogers replaced the added brown aluminum hanger with a gray stainless-steel hanger in 2007.
Troy Anderson added a 2-bolt/chain station in 2003.
Tony Calderone & John Rogers added 3 bolts and a 2-bolt/chain station in 2007.
Tony Calderone & John Rogers replaced the added brown aluminum hanger with a gray stainless-steel hanger in 2007.
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