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 ADVANCED
The Fin
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Dark Horse T 
Dorsal Fin, The T 
Fin Arete, The T 
Fins and Needles T 
Fish For Brains S 
Gills, The T 
Hand Drills Suck! T 
Lateral Fin, The T 
Other Intentions T 
Pabst Schmear, The S 
Ventral Fin, The T 
Wave of Mutilation, The T 
Unsorted Routes:

Other Intentions 

YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b R

   
Type:  Trad, 5 pitches, 400', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Troy Warburton, John Rogers: 1986
Season: Spring and Falls
Page Views: 1,247
Submitted By: John Rogers on Sep 25, 2006

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Troy Warburton on the First Ascent of Other Intent...

Route Description 

Start at the very lowest part of The Fin formation.
Pitch 1: Climb 100 feet up a slab passing three bolts, and gear placements to a two bolt anchor added by Troy Anderson, or continue with original route right of the Hand Drills Suck anchor to an arete on the right with a bolt. make a reachy move to a crack, move up crack for 10 feet, then traverse 15 feet left to a bushy ledge.
Pitch 2: Climb the slab, protected by 5 bolts 5.10. when the bolts end, move left to the ramp that will traverse up and right, and belay at trees.
Pitch 3: Climb crack and face, 5.8 to a belay ledge.
Pitch 4: Climb easy corner face, to an undercling roof. Traverse right under roof, move around edge, and face climb to a belay with a tree.
Pitch 5: Climb up fun face and friction moves. Bolts have been added since First Ascent. Continue climbing to the base of Dorsal Fin.


Protection 

Pitch 1: 7 bolts, 0.5"-3" cracks, Two 2-bolt/chain stations


Descent 

Pitch 1: 30 meter Rappel from Hand Drills suck anchor
Pitch 2: A two bolt anchor was added mid point of pitch 2, 30 meter rappel will reach Pith 1 anchor.
Pitch 3 and above: continue up climb to Dorsal Fin, walk west


History 

This route was bolted onsight/by hand/on lead by Troy Warburton & John Rogers in 1986. Troy Warburton did not place a bolt at the crux and fell onto a chickenhead.
Troy Anderson added a 2-bolt/chain station in 2003.
Tony Calderone & John Rogers added 3 bolts and a 2-bolt/chain station in 2007.
Tony Calderone & John Rogers replaced the added brown aluminum hanger with a gray stainless-steel hanger in 2007.



Photos of Other Intentions Slideshow Add Photo
1/4" Hand drill, drilling on lead.  What a blast from the past, embarrassing...
1/4" Hand drill, drilling on lead. What a blast f...
Comments on Other Intentions Add Comment
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By John Rogers
From: USA
Nov 3, 2006

Troy and I gave this climb a rating of II 5.10. Pitch 1 was 9+, second pitch 10, third was 8, fourth was 5.6 to the start of the Dorsal fin. There was no set anchor stations, and only 3 bolts total placed. I will post a photo or two as soon as I find my old pictures. I will also take some shots to show where we went.

By John Rogers
From: USA
Oct 11, 2008

The old 1/4" bolts on pitch #1 are now replaced with nice new rawl 3/8" equipment. 1 bolt was added to the route, at the poor protection flake. This bolt can be used to protect the moves up the flake, or the chickenhead mantle variation that is to the right of it. The route is fun to climb using either variation. The route is still "heady" but the new bolt offers safe protection at a place where "PPP" was the only option. This makes climbing the fin an all day experience, and adds many pitches to an already great location. It is still "grainy" but will clean nicely with further use.