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Routes in Cob Rock
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Aid Crack T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Brownies In The Basin T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Budin’s Foundation Crack T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Corn on the Cob T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Crystal Arete V3 6A |
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Devil's Dream T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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East Crack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Eat Left T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Eat Right T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Empor T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Empor Scary Variant T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Face Problem V3 6A |
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Face Route T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c X |
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Game, The V15 8C |
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Goat, The T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Headless Horseman, The V10 7C+ R |
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Hug Right, The V11 8A |
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Hug, The V10-11 8A PG13 |
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Hurley Direct T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Huston Crack T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Ignore the Thunder T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Indistinction T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Left Huge aka The Hug Left V8-9 7B+ |
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Mantle Arete V3+ 6A+ |
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Ms. Fanny Le Pump T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Night Vision T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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North Face Center T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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North Face Left T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Northwest Corner T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Othello T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Right Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Sleepy Hollow V9-10 7C+ R |
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South Crack (Unknown) T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Table Scraps T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Thunder Road S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Under The Boardwalk V12 8A+ |
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West Cracks T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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West Dihedral T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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West Rib T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
| Unsorted Routes: | |
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| Type: | Trad, 60 ft (18 m) |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 2,894 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | Walt Wehner on Dec 31, 2000 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Seasonal Closures 2024 - Bitty Buttress, Blob (Eagle Rock & Security Risk now open!)
Details
FS (3/27/24): Eagle Rock & Security Risk are now open!
2/1/24: W. McCurry: to protect nesting golden eagles, U.S. FS annual area closures in Boulder Canyon beginning 2/1/24 - Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, Eagle Rock, Security Risk.
USFS lifted closures 7/26/23.
From W. McCurry: 2/10/23 Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk opened. Eagle Rock stayed closed - info: fs.usda.gov/detail/arp/news….
W. McCurry, NFS, Arap./Roo. NF: USFS began annual area closures in BC 2/1/23. The closures were Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.
Through 7/31/23, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera will remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District with BCC monitors nesting progress & informs climbers about giving the eagles space to raise young.
Fed. & state laws prohibit disturbing any nesting bird of prey. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting closures. Signs are posted at key access pts into the closed areas. Closure info: fs.usda.gov/goto/arp/eagles.
K. Armstrong, Public Affairs Specialist, Nat'l Forest Service: as of 6/8/21: BC areas reopen after unsuccessful nesting.
K. Armstrong, NF Ranger 7/29/20:
Following a 5 mo. closure to protect nesting eagles, the Roosevelt NF has reopened Eagle Rock.
“The BC eagles successfully raised 1 strong & healthy eaglet this year,” wildlife biologist Aurelia DeNasha, USDA FS. “2 chicks hatched initially, only 1 survived to fledge, which isn’t uncommon in birds of prey.”
Visits to the nest did not reveal the exact cause of death of the 2nd chick, but climber cooperation with closures are crucial to the eagles.
“Golden eagle pairs are most susceptible to disturbance when choosing a nest. These closures allow the birds to pick the best site for survival without impact of other factors, such as human presence. Once chosen, nest sites stays closed until the eagles fledge in late July,” said DeNasha.
After the eagles’ site selection was made, unused areas opened in Apr.
The annual nesting closures include popular rock climbing spots at Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.
Effective through 7/31/20, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giving the eagles space to raise their young.
It is against federal & state law to disturb any nesting bird of prey. Only employees, volunteers, & wildlife professionals under an agreement with the FS enter nesting areas for monitoring purposes. This is for the integrity of nest & the safety of the eagles, those conducting surveys, & the public. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting all closures & leaving immediately if you should accidentally enter one.
For the most current closure information, check signs in the areas, call the Boulder Ranger District office @ 303-541-2500, or visit local climbing websites or fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
As of 4/21/20, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk are open. Eagle Rock stays closed until 7/31/2020 confirmed with Matt Henry, Rec Prog Mgr, FS.
From K. Armstrong, FS Pub Aff, katherine.armstrong@usda.gov, 970-222-7607: 3/20/19, Blob, East Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security are open. Eagle stays closed to climbing & other activities through 7/31/19.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress & to inform climbers.
See - fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
Perennial notice:
Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security will close 2/1 - 7/31 for nesting. Depending on updated information, the closure time can be shortened/lengthened.
Each year, BC raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting 2/1 through 7/31 at Eagle, Security, Blob, & Bitty Buttress. The area is monitored & closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the FS Boulder Ranger District, BCC, & Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at fs.usda.gov/recarea/arp/rec…
2/1/24: W. McCurry: to protect nesting golden eagles, U.S. FS annual area closures in Boulder Canyon beginning 2/1/24 - Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, Eagle Rock, Security Risk.
USFS lifted closures 7/26/23.
From W. McCurry: 2/10/23 Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk opened. Eagle Rock stayed closed - info: fs.usda.gov/detail/arp/news….
W. McCurry, NFS, Arap./Roo. NF: USFS began annual area closures in BC 2/1/23. The closures were Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.
Through 7/31/23, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera will remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District with BCC monitors nesting progress & informs climbers about giving the eagles space to raise young.
Fed. & state laws prohibit disturbing any nesting bird of prey. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting closures. Signs are posted at key access pts into the closed areas. Closure info: fs.usda.gov/goto/arp/eagles.
K. Armstrong, Public Affairs Specialist, Nat'l Forest Service: as of 6/8/21: BC areas reopen after unsuccessful nesting.
K. Armstrong, NF Ranger 7/29/20:
Following a 5 mo. closure to protect nesting eagles, the Roosevelt NF has reopened Eagle Rock.
“The BC eagles successfully raised 1 strong & healthy eaglet this year,” wildlife biologist Aurelia DeNasha, USDA FS. “2 chicks hatched initially, only 1 survived to fledge, which isn’t uncommon in birds of prey.”
Visits to the nest did not reveal the exact cause of death of the 2nd chick, but climber cooperation with closures are crucial to the eagles.
“Golden eagle pairs are most susceptible to disturbance when choosing a nest. These closures allow the birds to pick the best site for survival without impact of other factors, such as human presence. Once chosen, nest sites stays closed until the eagles fledge in late July,” said DeNasha.
After the eagles’ site selection was made, unused areas opened in Apr.
The annual nesting closures include popular rock climbing spots at Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.
Effective through 7/31/20, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giving the eagles space to raise their young.
It is against federal & state law to disturb any nesting bird of prey. Only employees, volunteers, & wildlife professionals under an agreement with the FS enter nesting areas for monitoring purposes. This is for the integrity of nest & the safety of the eagles, those conducting surveys, & the public. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting all closures & leaving immediately if you should accidentally enter one.
For the most current closure information, check signs in the areas, call the Boulder Ranger District office @ 303-541-2500, or visit local climbing websites or fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
As of 4/21/20, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk are open. Eagle Rock stays closed until 7/31/2020 confirmed with Matt Henry, Rec Prog Mgr, FS.
From K. Armstrong, FS Pub Aff, katherine.armstrong@usda.gov, 970-222-7607: 3/20/19, Blob, East Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security are open. Eagle stays closed to climbing & other activities through 7/31/19.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress & to inform climbers.
See - fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
Perennial notice:
Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security will close 2/1 - 7/31 for nesting. Depending on updated information, the closure time can be shortened/lengthened.
Each year, BC raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting 2/1 through 7/31 at Eagle, Security, Blob, & Bitty Buttress. The area is monitored & closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the FS Boulder Ranger District, BCC, & Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at fs.usda.gov/recarea/arp/rec…
Description
This is one of the farthest left of the routes located just around the corner and uphill (to the east) of the buttress with Huston Crack and Aid Crack at Cob Rock. This route climbs a slabby dihedral then tackles an impressive but easy 5 foot roof and finishes with perfect hands. There is no anchor, unfortunately, so you'll have to do a scary walkoff instead.
This is seldom climbed. Be careful of loose rock at mid-height.
Per Tony B:
Edit - a little research back in time with guidebooks has revealed that this climb is indeed Othello, and that the more recent books have simply misplaced the route.
This is a good stemming and jamming route with a small roof for crack climbing practice.
Start off from the ground in slightly junky rock, pull up into the corner on solid but tricky holds (10-, height may help), and get established in the corner. Stem and jam up several meters to get established under the roof, where a few 1" and under TCUs can be placed well with a long sling before battling the roof. Jam overhead and stem up to place a 2.5" cam (a yellow Camalot is OK) over the lip of the roof just above a solid chockstone, then stem and pull up on great hand jams and some incut holds to get established over the roof (crux, 10-). Continue onward to a nice ledge to set a trad belay.
To descend, scramble upward and SE, then down a ramp and south again to the ground... it is hard to explain, and might be best found from the ground first.
Eds. This is a combination of two submissions that are ultimately for the same route.
This is seldom climbed. Be careful of loose rock at mid-height.
Per Tony B:
Edit - a little research back in time with guidebooks has revealed that this climb is indeed Othello, and that the more recent books have simply misplaced the route.
This is a good stemming and jamming route with a small roof for crack climbing practice.
Start off from the ground in slightly junky rock, pull up into the corner on solid but tricky holds (10-, height may help), and get established in the corner. Stem and jam up several meters to get established under the roof, where a few 1" and under TCUs can be placed well with a long sling before battling the roof. Jam overhead and stem up to place a 2.5" cam (a yellow Camalot is OK) over the lip of the roof just above a solid chockstone, then stem and pull up on great hand jams and some incut holds to get established over the roof (crux, 10-). Continue onward to a nice ledge to set a trad belay.
To descend, scramble upward and SE, then down a ramp and south again to the ground... it is hard to explain, and might be best found from the ground first.
Eds. This is a combination of two submissions that are ultimately for the same route.
Protection
Set of cams, heavy on #2 and #3.
Per Tony B: 1 rack of cams from 0.5-3" plus a few medium-large nuts + slings. The top is a trad anchor that needs a cordalette or similar to toprope. The descent requires a scramble off that can be tricky to find.
Per Tony B: 1 rack of cams from 0.5-3" plus a few medium-large nuts + slings. The top is a trad anchor that needs a cordalette or similar to toprope. The descent requires a scramble off that can be tricky to find.
Location
Per Tony B: this route is up and left of the main face of Cob Rock. Find the Huston Crack Buttress and go up and left around a corner to find 3 parallel cracks, from right to left, South Crack (5.6), Indistinction (5.8), and Ms. Fanny Le Pump (11+). These can be recognized by the anchor 10 meters off of the ground on the left two of these three. Around another small corner, up and left, is Othello. This climb starts in a shallow left-facing corner and goes to a small roof at 30' then onward to a large ledge.
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