Big reach! I missed that sidepull crimp just above...
The route lies on the arete between Peter's Project and Callipigeanous. Start just left of Peter's and climb to roof. Then traverse left under roof. After that, make a giant reach (for perspective I'm 6'3" and it felt giant to me) to a decent hold. Next latch obvious jug. A few more powerful moves and the route joins the upper easy sections of Callipigeanous.
I may be missing something on this route, but it felt hard and reachy to me.
This is a great route! It deserves more stars. I have never been on a route quite like this at the lake. It was like a giant boulder problem!
It starts out with very powerful moves. Start on the obvious large holds under the roof. Use small feet to pull to right crimp, then bump to small sloper straight up. Left hands moves to far left flake. Then bump again to another left flake. Move feet, bump to horizontal crimp with left hand. Small bump again with left hand just up to vertical side pull crimp (with those 2 crimps, the giant bump is not so giant). Move feet up, right hand swings back to make large move to big jug on arete. A few more large moves and you are up to the main arete. There is one more hard move at the top right before you finish up.
By NickinCO From: colorado Nov 29, 2010 rating: 5.10b6a+19VII-19E2 5b
How far to the right are you guys starting this route under the little roof? I initially tried about 10' to the right I believe how the guidebook suggests and it feels a heck of a lot harder than 5.10 In comparison the rest of the route was pretty easy except for the start.
Classic DL bouldering problem! I start with my left foot up near the left corner. Other people start farther right. To me the crux is making the transition around the corner: long blind reach, powerful side-pull crimp, and ease your hips around and up without blowing through the equilibrium point.
I will preface this by saying I boulder a lot. The start was super fun and was totally a boulder problem. The reaches weren't too far. I'm only 5'9" and was able to get all the holds (a little dynamic climbing isn't so bad...) Don't pass this one up because it's got a lower rating.