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Heroine Hypnosis 
Osprey 

Osprey 

5.6 PG13

   
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Type: Trad, 3 pitches, 170 feet
Consensus: 5.6 [details]
FA: Hugh Dougher and Henry McMahon
Submitted By: Ross Purnell on Apr 28, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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BETA PHOTO: In this photo: pitch 1 of Osprey. Climber is just ...

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Peregrine Falcon Closure Lifted MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Pitch 1: Climb up easy terrain (5.2-5.4) to an obvious belay ledge below an indent with a small overhang. There is a rap station on this belay station.

Pitch 2: Climb up and left through the indent (crux) up past a roof with a crack in the middle of it it. The last time I was there, there was a blue Tri-cam stuck in the crack below this first roof, do not belay here. Pull the roof and then belay on the small sloping ledge below the next roof.

Pitch 3: Pull the roof directly over the belay (crux) then move past two easier roofs. At the top of the climb there is a huge roof that you skirt underneath to the left and finish on a dirty, loose ledge with a good tree (Same as Heroine Hypnosis).


Location 

Hike the Blue Trail and arrive at the Practice Face. Turn left and follow the cliff for about 100-150 yards. The climbs Osprey and Heroine Hypnosis are just after the point where you make a 4th class scramble up to a high point along the path. Osprey is on the left, HH is on the right.

Two 60M ropes will take you to the bottom.


Protection 

Good protection. Use long slings to avoid rope drag on the roofs.

Has bolts and rings at the top.



Photos of Osprey Slideshow Add Photo
Detail of climber making the first moves off of the first belay station. Look for this feature from the ground and you can't go wrong.

Detail of climber making the first moves off of th...

Looking down from a belay above the first crux.  Optionally, you can belay where scott's standing, as per the guidebooks.

Looking down from a belay above the first crux. O...

Scott coming down after climbing Osprey.  For the most part the route follows a line 5-10 feet right of the rappel ropes.

Scott coming down after climbing Osprey. For the ...


Comments on Osprey Add Comment
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By Larry S
Aug 8, 2011

Has bolts and rings at the top. First belay is the 3rd of 3 ledges, directly under an overhang with a piton. 2nd belay is a sloping ledge, but you can belay a little lower at a small slopey stance that way the crux isn't directly off the belay. Seemed technically stout for a 5.6, though not pumpy. Climbing with double ropes would be wise to help with drag, you're carrying two ropes for the rap anyway.

By Larry S
Oct 12, 2011

Beware the rope eating crack on P3.

By Larry S
Feb 26, 2012

Climbed this again today... New recommended strategy - 2 pitches - belay on the decent ledge just above the first crux (30 feet above the normal first pitch belay).

By Jeramie Cavanaugh
Nov 14, 2012

Awsome climb this one is up there with mhy favorite gunks classics... highly reccomeneded (also highly reccomend long slings)! Will be going back soon to climb again!