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3. High Wall Right
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Captain Hook 
Heroine Hypnosis T 
Osprey T 

Osprey 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 220'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: Hugh Dougher and Henry McMahon
Page Views: 3,168
Submitted By: Ross Purnell on Apr 28, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (11)
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BETA PHOTO: In this photo: pitch 1 of Osprey. Climber is negot...

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  • Description 

    Pitch 1: Climb up easy terrain to a small indent with a roof. Pass the roof on the left (5.6) and belay on the flat ledge above (100 feet).

    Pitch 2: Follow the obvious line straight up, passing three small roofs on the way. Use long slings to avoid rope drag as this pitch is nearly 200 feet. At the top of the climb there is a huge roof that you skirt underneath to the left and finish on a dirty, loose ledge with a good tree (Same as Heroine Hypnosis).

    Location 

    Hike the Blue Trail and arrive at the Practice Face. Turn left and follow the cliff for about 100-150 yards. The climbs Osprey and Heroine Hypnosis are just after the point where you make a 4th class scramble up to a high point along the path. Osprey is on the left, HH is on the right.

    Two 60M ropes will take you to the bottom.

    Protection 

    Good protection. Use long slings to avoid rope drag on the roofs.

    Has bolts and rings at the top.


    Photos of Osprey Slideshow Add Photo
    If you belay here, on the flat ledge above the alc...
    BETA PHOTO: If you belay here, on the flat ledge above the alc...
    Detail of climber making the crux moves near the e...
    Detail of climber making the crux moves near the e...
    Scott coming down after climbing Osprey.  For the ...
    Scott coming down after climbing Osprey. For the ...
    Looking down from a belay above the first crux.  O...
    Looking down from a belay above the first crux. O...
    This is the view from the belay ledge looking up a...
    This is the view from the belay ledge looking up a...

    Comments on Osprey Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Larry S
    From: Easton, Pennsylvania
    Aug 8, 2011

    Has bolts and rings at the top. First belay is the 3rd of 3 ledges, directly under an overhang with a piton. 2nd belay is a sloping ledge, but you can belay a little lower at a small slopey stance that way the crux isn't directly off the belay. Seemed technically stout for a 5.6, though not pumpy. Climbing with double ropes would be wise to help with drag, you're carrying two ropes for the rap anyway.
    By Larry S
    From: Easton, Pennsylvania
    Oct 12, 2011

    Beware the rope eating crack on P3.
    By Larry S
    From: Easton, Pennsylvania
    Feb 26, 2012

    Climbed this again today... New recommended strategy - 2 pitches - belay on the decent ledge just above the first crux (30 feet above the normal first pitch belay).
    By Jeramie Cavanaugh
    Nov 14, 2012

    Awsome climb this one is up there with mhy favorite gunks classics... highly reccomeneded (also highly reccomend long slings)! Will be going back soon to climb again!
    By Ross Purnell
    From: Palmyra
    Sep 9, 2013

    I rewrote the description to two pitches, with one comfortable belay, and a second long pitch. Much better this way.
    By joeforte
    From: palmerton, pa
    Sep 17, 2014

    I like to do this route as one fun long pitch with double ropes. Try it!
    By Gordon88
    From: Easton, Pennsylvania
    Sep 29, 2014

    Awesome climb! Definitely felt hard for a 5.6. Why does this only have 2.5 stars??
    I had a fair amount of rope drag at the top of the 2nd pitch (climbing the route in 2 pitches per Larry's recommendation), and I extended every piece, some with double length slings.
    By Ross Purnell
    From: Palmyra
    Sep 30, 2014

    Gordon, I think it's PA's best moderate multipitch trad route. It deserves many stars!
    By Larry S
    From: Easton, Pennsylvania
    Oct 1, 2014

    Gordon - thats the trade-off i suppose. The original belay for doing this in 3 pitches will give you a little less rope drag, but its on an uncomfortable slab. I think its only 30 or 40 feet above the decent belay ledge, just below an alcove / crux that is passed on the left.
    By Moritz Ricotomo 1
    Jan 19, 2015

    I tried this route on the 23rd of November but had to back down because we underestimated how quickly it got dark. In the process one of my cams got jammed. We where in a rush so I'm sure with a little work you could probably pull it out. If anyone retrieves it please email me at moritzwalther@inbox.lv or pm me on mountainproject. Its a #1 climbx.
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