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3. High Wall Right
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Heroine Hypnosis T 
Osprey T 

Osprey 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 220'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: Hugh Dougher and Henry McMahon
Page Views: 2,850
Submitted By: Ross Purnell on Apr 28, 2009

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BETA PHOTO: In this photo: pitch 1 of Osprey. Climber is negot...

Seasonal Falcon Closure: Update MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Pitch 1: Climb up easy terrain to a small indent with a roof. Pass the roof on the left (5.6) and belay on the flat ledge above (100 feet).

Pitch 2: Follow the obvious line straight up, passing three small roofs on the way. Use long slings to avoid rope drag as this pitch is nearly 200 feet. At the top of the climb there is a huge roof that you skirt underneath to the left and finish on a dirty, loose ledge with a good tree (Same as Heroine Hypnosis).

Location 

Hike the Blue Trail and arrive at the Practice Face. Turn left and follow the cliff for about 100-150 yards. The climbs Osprey and Heroine Hypnosis are just after the point where you make a 4th class scramble up to a high point along the path. Osprey is on the left, HH is on the right.

Two 60M ropes will take you to the bottom.

Protection 

Good protection. Use long slings to avoid rope drag on the roofs.

Has bolts and rings at the top.


Photos of Osprey Slideshow Add Photo
If you belay here, on the flat ledge above the alcove with a roof, then the second and final pitch can take you all the way to the top. Above this spot there are no comfortable belay ledges.
BETA PHOTO: If you belay here, on the flat ledge above the alc...
Detail of climber making the crux moves near the end of the first pitch. Look for this identifying feature you can see from the ground. Belay just above this roof/alcove.
Detail of climber making the crux moves near the e...
Scott coming down after climbing Osprey.  For the most part the route follows a line 5-10 feet right of the rappel ropes.
Scott coming down after climbing Osprey. For the ...
Looking down from a belay above the first crux.  Optionally, you can belay where scott's standing, as per the guidebooks.
Looking down from a belay above the first crux. O...
This is the view from the belay ledge looking up at the second and final pitch of Osprey. You can see that it's steep and sustained with many small roofs.
This is the view from the belay ledge looking up a...

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By Larry S
Aug 8, 2011

Has bolts and rings at the top. First belay is the 3rd of 3 ledges, directly under an overhang with a piton. 2nd belay is a sloping ledge, but you can belay a little lower at a small slopey stance that way the crux isn't directly off the belay. Seemed technically stout for a 5.6, though not pumpy. Climbing with double ropes would be wise to help with drag, you're carrying two ropes for the rap anyway.
By Larry S
Oct 12, 2011

Beware the rope eating crack on P3.
By Larry S
Feb 26, 2012

Climbed this again today... New recommended strategy - 2 pitches - belay on the decent ledge just above the first crux (30 feet above the normal first pitch belay).
By Jeramie Cavanaugh
Nov 14, 2012

Awsome climb this one is up there with mhy favorite gunks classics... highly reccomeneded (also highly reccomend long slings)! Will be going back soon to climb again!
By Ross Purnell
From: Palmyra
Sep 9, 2013

I rewrote the description to two pitches, with one comfortable belay, and a second long pitch. Much better this way.
By joeforte
From: palmerton, pa
5 days ago

I like to do this route as one fun long pitch with double ropes. Try it!