Oslund's Delight 5.8
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BETA PHOTO: Oslund's Delight. Short and good warm up.
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Description Poke around through the woods to the left of Currey's Diagonal approximately 50 yards until finding a distinct, short, hand crack that leads to a ledge below a left-facing dihedral. One can scramble around to the left to avoid the short crack, although it is fun as a boulder problem or one piece pitch. The climb above follows the handcrack in the dihedral, the crux coming swiftly, followed by fun jamming that ends all to soon at the top. Set up and anchor, belay, and walk off to the left.
Protection Moderate-sized (short pitches), rack heavy in the hand sized cams. No rap anchor.
| Comments on Oslund's Delight |
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By pete cogan
Sep 6, 2003
| Fun route. Instead of walking off L, you can also walk about 40 feet to your right and rap off an anchor, coming down on the other side of the rock. 60 meter rope reaches easily. |
By Jason Funk
From: Laramie Wyoming
May 12, 2008
| Nice hand crack, wish it was longer. I agree with the previous comment and would not really recommend walking off the other side (NE) to the left unless you don't mind sliding down an easy offwidth. My partner on the way down sliced his hand up pretty bad at the very bottom when he slid out of the chimney and ended almost landing his head on a rock. Not the way he wanted to go- on Mother's Day. |
By Brad W.
Aug 19, 2012
| There are new(er) rap anchors to the climbers right(if one is looking at the route from the ground). Climb to the top and walk 25 yards uphill to the left of the giant boulder. On your right you will see a small cave-like passage. Squeeze through it and the chains will be on your left at chest level. A 60m rope will get you down. |
By Arlo F Niederer
From: Fort Collins, CO
Sep 11, 2012
rating: 5.8
| This is a finger crack, not a hand-sized crack. The largest cam I used leading was a #1 Camalot (red) at the top. #2 or #3 are useful for the belay, but smaller will work.
An awkward move gets to the start of the climb, and the crux are a few moves getting into the dihedral. Finger-sized cams or nuts for pro.
As the previous poster mentioned, rappel anchors about 10m to the right provide rapid descent. The rappel is 25m, and is above the climb Reading Raymond Chandler. |
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