Poke around through the woods to the left of Currey's Diagonal approximately 50 yards until finding a distinct, short, hand crack that leads to a ledge below a left-facing dihedral. One can scramble around to the left to avoid the short crack, although it is fun as a boulder problem or one piece pitch. The climb above follows the handcrack in the dihedral, the crux coming swiftly, followed by fun jamming that ends all to soon at the top. Set up and anchor, belay, and walk off to the left.
Moderate-sized (short pitches), rack heavy in the hand sized cams. No rap anchor.
|By pete cogan|
Sep 6, 2003
Fun route. Instead of walking off L, you can also walk about 40 feet to your right and rap off an anchor, coming down on the other side of the rock. 60 meter rope reaches easily.
|By Jason Funk|
From: Salt Lake City, UT
May 12, 2008
Nice hand crack, wish it was longer. I agree with the previous comment and would not really recommend walking off the other side (NE) to the left unless you don't mind sliding down an easy offwidth. My partner on the way down sliced his hand up pretty bad at the very bottom when he slid out of the chimney and ended almost landing his head on a rock. Not the way he wanted to go- on Mother's Day.
|By Brad W.|
Aug 19, 2012
There are new(er) rap anchors to the climbers right(if one is looking at the route from the ground). Climb to the top and walk 25 yards uphill to the left of the giant boulder. On your right you will see a small cave-like passage. Squeeze through it and the chains will be on your left at chest level. A 60m rope will get you down.
|By Arlo F Niederer|
From: Fort Collins, CO
Sep 11, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
This is a finger crack, not a hand-sized crack. The largest cam I used leading was a #1 Camalot (red) at the top. #2 or #3 are useful for the belay, but smaller will work.
An awkward move gets to the start of the climb, and the crux are a few moves getting into the dihedral. Finger-sized cams or nuts for pro.
As the previous poster mentioned, rappel anchors about 10m to the right provide rapid descent. The rappel is 25m, and is above the climb Reading Raymond Chandler.
|By Jen Vaisman|
From: San Francisco, CA
Jul 19, 2014
Sketchy start if going from the right. Not much for protection. I went in from the left to the start of the finger crack. Didn't use anything bigger than a #2 though I'd suggest bringing one #3.
Great route but too short.
Rapped way over right (climber's right) above Currey's Diagonal. Sketchy and spicy getting to the rap station. There are other alternatives for rapping on either side of formation.