Oscar Was a Dumpster Junkie
5.11+ YDS 7a French 24 Ewbanks VIII UIAA 24 ZA E4 6a British
Avg: 1 from 1 vote
Type: | Sport, 20 ft (6 m) |
FA: | hang-dogged, but not sent yet |
Page Views: | 688 total · 4/month |
Shared By: | Evan Winn on May 18, 2009 |
Admins: | Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: Private Property - Waiver Required
Details
The Puoux (and Super Puoux) is on the "Defiance Cave Preserve". All climbers must first download, complete and submit the climbing waiver to Ken Headrick, the property manager, by email attachment. The manager will acknowledge receipt of the waiver. You do not need to schedule a day or time when submitting your waivers. For more information go to coloradowesternslopegrotto.…
Download waiver here: coloradowesternslopegrotto.…
From the land owner: I am Michael Frazier owner of the Puoux climbing area. A few things I need to clarify. We want Everyone to feel welcome. We are asking everyone to fill out waivers for two reasons. The first is obvious. To cover our behinds. The second reason is to help us keep Interstate access open by showing C Dot historical access. I would like to see the waiver forms posted on this page. The other thing I would like to address is that we would like to be notified of any modifications of trails , platforms, and routes before they have began. Under no circumstances do we want rock chipping for hold placement. If you can't climb it as it is please choose another climb that is easier or improve your technique. One more thing. We have never issued trespassing tickets and I would like that taken off the description at the top of this page.
Download waiver here: coloradowesternslopegrotto.…
From the land owner: I am Michael Frazier owner of the Puoux climbing area. A few things I need to clarify. We want Everyone to feel welcome. We are asking everyone to fill out waivers for two reasons. The first is obvious. To cover our behinds. The second reason is to help us keep Interstate access open by showing C Dot historical access. I would like to see the waiver forms posted on this page. The other thing I would like to address is that we would like to be notified of any modifications of trails , platforms, and routes before they have began. Under no circumstances do we want rock chipping for hold placement. If you can't climb it as it is please choose another climb that is easier or improve your technique. One more thing. We have never issued trespassing tickets and I would like that taken off the description at the top of this page.
Description
This is the teal line in the beta photo.
When we were young, we were so naive. We watched Sesame Street and never asked questions we just took things at face value. We just believed that Big Bird was the only one who could see or talk to Snuffleupagus but never wondered if Big Bird needed therapy. We didn't realize the Count probably had O.C.D., didn't realize Bert and Ernie (neat and clean roommates for life who wear colorful sweaters) were likely living in the closet and really more than best buddies and never asked what was in Cookie Monster's Cookies, but worst of all, we all laughed at Oscar, a dirty grumpy guy who lives in a garbage can, and now we realize that he was probably in that can due to a RAGING drug problem.
Well, like Oscar, this route is short dirty and grumpy. It follows an interesting looking, dihedral feature up the front of the Bert Boulder. You start on some chossy ledges and move left into the dihedral. There are a few good sidepulls low and out to the right and harsh crimps on the left. At half height, look for a decent, right handed undercling, and then you hit the crux. There are a few small crimps in the orange scar that will get you to a good pinch right of the anchor. If you fall it won't be far, but the sharp stone will make you pay. This is not great, but once you start you will want to finish it.
When we were young, we were so naive. We watched Sesame Street and never asked questions we just took things at face value. We just believed that Big Bird was the only one who could see or talk to Snuffleupagus but never wondered if Big Bird needed therapy. We didn't realize the Count probably had O.C.D., didn't realize Bert and Ernie (neat and clean roommates for life who wear colorful sweaters) were likely living in the closet and really more than best buddies and never asked what was in Cookie Monster's Cookies, but worst of all, we all laughed at Oscar, a dirty grumpy guy who lives in a garbage can, and now we realize that he was probably in that can due to a RAGING drug problem.
Well, like Oscar, this route is short dirty and grumpy. It follows an interesting looking, dihedral feature up the front of the Bert Boulder. You start on some chossy ledges and move left into the dihedral. There are a few good sidepulls low and out to the right and harsh crimps on the left. At half height, look for a decent, right handed undercling, and then you hit the crux. There are a few small crimps in the orange scar that will get you to a good pinch right of the anchor. If you fall it won't be far, but the sharp stone will make you pay. This is not great, but once you start you will want to finish it.
Photos
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