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"Unnamed Lucky Amnesia Route" 
*Both Sides Now 
*Boy Toy 
*Fool's Gold 
*Free Loading Freddie 
*Freeze Fry 
*Gamma Bursts 
*Getting 86ed 
*Open Project 
*Oscar Pickerel 
*Overland 
*Parallel Transport 
*Plumbago 
*Reeses Pieces 
*Ride Steppenwolf 
Block Party 
Casting Line 
Crossover 
Cyritos the Kat 
Electric Kool-Aid Acid Test 
Leftover Love and Still Horny 
Mill Iron Spear 
Nazi Regalia 
Positive Illusions 
Ramp Pitch 
Rope Tricks 
Scarpelli's Belly 
What You Don't Have 
Wuss Route 

*Oscar Pickerel 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b

   
Type: Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Rosen, Horning.
Page Views: 35
Submitted By: ryan laird on Feb 20, 2012
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Description 

Ascends the obvious splitter finger crack in the middle of the cliff.

Start by stepping right past the roof, up the thin seam, through the notch, and up the SW-facing splitter crack. Finish the route by following the slab (gear) to a few steep moves to reach the apex of the second major ramp or continue straight up from the splitter crack past two bolts (10+) to the anchor at the top of Both Sides Now.


Location 

Starts just to the right of the "pinchout" on the first major ramp. Use the Ramp Pitch or Leftover Love and Still Horny to access the start.


Protection 

Bolts and gear to cold shuts.



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