|Below The Old New Place
Between L-Dopa and right twin crack: short face climbing off the ground to a shallow slabby dihedral, then to vertical wall with very thin crack (short crux), finish straight up to the rim (No Anchor currently, I have no objection to one being added). Removed dictionary sized hanging flake just above crux. Please submit information regarding earlier ascents/route name if known . . .
Between Right Twin Crack (aka Lost Nerve) and L-Dopa. See amended beta photo in main BTONP section.
Rack to #3 camalot, including small nuts. Protection is better than it looks.
|By Jason Halladay|
From: Los Alamos, NM
Apr 27, 2011
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c
Matt, I talked with another local climber recently and he'd never seen nor heard of anyone climbing this line. I hadn't either. I'd looked at this crack before but figured it too small to protect well. Thanks for inspiration to climb it. I'd say you have the FA of the line and should give it a name.
I found the line entertaining with a fun sequence of moves through the crux. It's inconsistent in difficulty with the short crux section and easier climbing below and above that. It protects adequately enough, though. Tiny nuts are necessary. I really appreciated my WC Superlight Rocks.
After the crux I cut hard left to the anchor on Manic Crack (aka Left Twin Crack) which protected well enough for the second and saved the trouble of topping out. That slope above the route is loose and chock full of cholla. If enough people enjoy this route I'd be happy to put in a fixed anchor if you're OK with it.
|By Sky Sjue|
From: Santa Fe
May 24, 2012
Patrick and I both led this tonight. Interesting little climb. There is, for the moment, a fixed RP probably rated about 3 kN in the middle of the thin bit. If you clean it, it's all yours. I will hopefully hop on this again for the clean send in the near future. I thought the top seemed interesting enough and would personally not complain about a fixed anchor, Jason. But it's probably not worth the time and resources. I don't know that this one will ever be a crowd pleaser.