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 ADVANCED
d. Strictly - Shockley's
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Anguish T 
Armadillo's Delight T 
Calisthenic T 
Epiclepsy TR 
Gaston T 
Glypnod T 
Glyptodon T 
Gorilla My Dreams T 
Grim-Ace Face T 
Hi Coroner! T 
High Corner T 
Midnight Cowboy T 
Nemesis T 
Oscar and Charlie T 
PR T 
Revenge of the Relics T,TR 
Ribless (a.k.a. Spare Ribs) T,TR 
Ribs T 
Ruby Saturday Direct T 
Shockley's Ceiling T 
Simple Ceilings T 
Splashtic T 
Strictly From Nowhere T 
Travels With Charley T 

Oscar and Charlie 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 180'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: 1950s: Oscar Dorfman (Oscar's Variation)
Page Views: 2,364
Submitted By: bryan barnett on Nov 5, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (52)
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BETA PHOTO: Guillaume Frechette in the p1 corner of Oscar and ...

Description 

1. Oscar variation as a start to Strictly From Nowhere: Climb the large left-facing corner over a bulge to the top of the corner. Trend right towards the large left facing Strictly corner and overhang. Move right and up to bolt anchors behind pine tree.

2. Oscar to Travels With Charley: After the corner, move up the face to a good horizontal. Traverse left 15 feet to join Travels With Charley. Climb up to an overhang and move up and right at a break. A bit dirty.

Location 

Start in the large left-facing corner to the left of Strictly From Nowhere; this is 40' to the left of Shockley's Ceiling.

Approach via the trail that rises almost directly across from the top of the Stairmaster.

Protection 

Standard Gunks rack.


Photos of Oscar and Charlie Slideshow Add Photo
Ryan in the Oscar/Charlie corner
Ryan in the Oscar/Charlie corner
Setting up for the P1 crux of "Oscar & Charlie," shortly after a good rain.
Setting up for the P1 crux of "Oscar & Charlie," s...

Comments on Oscar and Charlie Add Comment
Show which comments
By doligo
Aug 9, 2010
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Better, more sustained way to approach Strictly's roof, IMO. Finished on Shockley's Ceiling.
By Heather Selitrennikoff
From: East Coast
Sep 27, 2010

We did Oscar and Charlie, P2 finishs up with 2 small roofs/ledges that have a few slightly pumpy moves. Nice variation over doing the Shockley's finish.
By Andy Weinmann
From: Alexandria, VA
Apr 9, 2012
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Broke this into three pitches as the grey Williams guide says (I led Strictly's :-) This worked well since the area was rather crowded and there were three of us. Avoided Shockley's Ceiling and the traffic jam of people there. Overall the route was quite worthwhile.
By gblauer
From: Wayne, PA
Sep 25, 2012

I very much enjoy P1.
By Kurtz
Oct 30, 2013

Clarification: P1 ends at BOLT anchors behind the second, smaller pine tree; not the first, bigger pine tree with a rapp anchor.

If you link Shockley's from the O.C. bolts, you can just make it to the top with a 60m rope, but belay from the tree to the right of the normal Shockley's finish.
By rogerbenton
Nov 14, 2013

P1- great little corner.
By Josh Smethers
From: Malvern, pa
Apr 13, 2014
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Fun short corner with good stemming and pro.