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ORP is dead center. Lesser Spire on the left. View...
Description The twin to Lesser Spire, ORP hosts a handful of poorly documented climbs and plenty of room for exploration. Part steep walls of bomber stone, part blocky meandering, and part flaky dirty granite, it's name reflects the ambiguous disrespect that early climbers felt towards it, "Old Raunchy Penis". Despite this unflattering name, you will find good 3-4 pitch climbs here, with options for sun or shade depending on the season.
Getting There ORP shares the same approach as Lesser Spire, easy by Organ mtn standards. Descent can be made by walking off the south-east flank, or by finding scattered rappel stations consisting of manky slings tied around suspicious blocks.
The ClassicsMountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for ORP:
Orgy 5.6 Trad, 5 pitches, 800 feet
Featured Route For ORP
Orgy 5.6 NM : Organ Mountains : ORP
A nice beginner route up the beautiful east buttress of ORP. The first 3 pitches are excellent.P1: Start at the base of the gully on the south of the east buttreess of ORP. Climb easy terrain up past a tree and on towards the top of a shoulder. 100'.P2: Climb a series of low angle cracks, passing a nice ledge and ending up on another broad ledge beneath a steeper "headwall", 100'.P3: 5.6, the "crux" pitch. A wide chimney like crack, but not chimney like climbing. Good protection and holds abound... [more] Browse More Classics in NM
BETA PHOTO: ORP East Butress
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BETA PHOTO: ORP North Face and East Butress
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BETA PHOTO: Eastern buttress of ORP
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Marta getting ready to scramble down from the summ...
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By Robert Cort
Sep 18, 2011
| We had a hard time finding the SE Flank walk off. Ended up doing an exposed traverse (roped), then descending the next gully south of ORGY. We did one very short rappel at the bottom of the gully, but after the rap, saw that it was down climbable. We did find one rather large rattlesnake in the gully so watch your step. Perhaps there's an easier way to get to the gully we used by going directly up over the bouldery shoulder south of ORP directly (our route went around it to it's east). |
By Aaron Hobson
Administrator
From: Las Cruces, NM
Sep 20, 2011
| I think what Bob describes above is what i was calling the SE flank walk-off. there may have been a little scramble/traverse to get south the to the gully, but if I recall you can avoid an exposed move by doing a short but less exposed boulder problem. |
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