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Rock Of Ages
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Wasp, The T 

Original Sin 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: A. Sharp & R. Leavitt, 1981
Page Views: 305
Submitted By: Tony B on Aug 11, 2002

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Description 

Go to the far right-hand end of Rock Of Ages' lower wall and look for huge, right-facing and overhanging dihedral system. Due to the position and overhang, this route gets both morning and afternoon shade. The afternoon shade is much more complete.

Climb up a scaly overhang into the handcrack in the corner. Work your way up the corner for 60-70 feet, with frequent backsteps for the right foot. You will find the route ennervating due to the scaly feet and occasionally flaring and scaly jams.

Fight your way to the top, but make sure to keep the belayer away from the rain of scaly rock that will come from your ascent. Top out on the above ledge and get to the fixed rap on the tree. A fixed anchor there needs another 18-inch loop of webbing to be bomber, or perhaps a #9 stopper up and to the right and tied in with a 40-inch loop. Rap off to the south, 80' to the ground.

This route is best described as a classic route through terrible stone. Sadly enough, it would have to be for selfless reasons that anyone would climb it. The moves are great, but the rock quality is so poor that I can't honestly recommend the route. If it were agressively cleaned by another 10 parties, it would become a 2 star route and with a few years of traffic could be 3 stars. I agressively cleaned a lot of the route with my fingers and fists (pry and whack). It sapped my energy to do so on while climbing (on lead) which is the only way it is possible because of its overhanging nature. I ended up hanging on gear a few times. You can't get to it on rap.


Protection 

One set of nuts + cams from 1" to 4" with doubles from 1.5 to 2.5"

The gear is primarily good, but the scaley rock will put you in doubt of many of the stances and some of the gear. You will likely place more then you normally would on a climb of this grade.



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