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Routes in Shire Spire
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Back Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Original Route T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Saruman's Ruffians TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Southwest Farthing S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Virginia T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, TR, 80 ft (24 m) |
| FA: | Chick "Chaz" Spacal |
| Page Views: | 1,311 total · 12/month |
| Shared By: | Eric Munsing on Jun 1, 2015 · Updates |
| Admins: | Aron Quiter, Lurk Er, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Description
Consistently overhanging, this route changes from steep hands to sporty climbing between cracks, made possible by a number of juggy holds and a few good rests. The rock is hollow in spots and shows scars from recent rockfall, so climb delicately. After the first twenty feet, the climbing changes from bomber cracks to tenuous face climbing, making protection difficult. I would recommend topping the route before leading this, even if you are used to climbing at this grade.
Location
Located on the overhanging northern side of the Shire Spire at the north end of the Luther Spires crag.
Protection
Easiest to climb by toproping after climbing Back Crack or Virginia and scrambling across the top of the spire. To traditionally protect, bring a full range of cams and nuts, potentially down to micronuts. Bring slings for extending protection on this wandery route.
Anchors do not currently have chains; safest to rappel off of the anchors for the other routes on the spire (Back Crack or Virginia).
Anchors do not currently have chains; safest to rappel off of the anchors for the other routes on the spire (Back Crack or Virginia).
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