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Original Route T 

Original Route 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 200'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: 
Season: year round, except in the snow
Page Views: 492
Submitted By: presto on Mar 15, 2012

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First Pitch of Original Route.

Falcon closures. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Climb a large block to your first step across move to a right leaning crack. First pitch is trad past a small tree before two bolts over slab, then a two bolt anchor. The second pitch takes a bolt straight up from the anchor, and then wanders along varying slab and crack. At the very end of my rope length (60m), there is a nice spot to anchor next to a large tree.

Second pitch is much easier, perhaps 5.6 or less, but a longer pitch. there is an easy walk to the summit, and a large ramp walkoff to climbers right.

Location 

Found at the base of the wall, right up from the climbers trail, step across large boulder to begin the route, following the obvious finger hand crack to the upper right. Just to your left will be a huge chimney full of boulders.

Protection 

Standard rack, a BD 2 and a 3 are nice for the anchor. Wider gear proved more useful.


Photos of Original Route Slideshow Add Photo
Second Belay, nice and spacious.
Second Belay, nice and spacious.

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By Kevin Keith
Jun 2, 2012

The name of this route is "Pilot". It was first climbed by Julie T. in 1991 or 92. I shored up the belay anchor many years ago. The second pitch is super cool if you climb past a bolt and climb a horizontal finger crack to the right for about 50' until a vertical crack is gained. Follow the next crack upward to a belay stance. One of my favorites.