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Original Route
5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British A2+ PG13
Avg: 2 from 1
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| Type: | Trad, Aid, 300 ft (91 m), 4 pitches, Grade IV |
| FA: | Mike Baker solo, May 1992 |
| Page Views: | 663 total · 4/month |
| Shared By: | Ben Kiessel on Nov 29, 2010 |
| Admins: | slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
Description
Pitch 1- Aid up through sections of rotten rock until the angle lessons and you can free climb. Build a gear anchor on a ledge at the base of the tower. (green alien to #1 seemed to fit.) 5.8, C2 175'
Pitch 2- Climb up from the belay on 5.8 passing a pin to a pin ladder. Belay at a 3 pin anchor on a small stance. 60'
Pitch 3-Climb the rotten crack directly above your belayer passing some suspect fixed gear along the way. Aid out an overhang and finish the pitch on a ledge with a two pin anchor. A2+ 110'
NOTE: Combine pitches 2 and 3 if you don't want to hit your belayer with rocks.
Pitch 4- Climb 5.8 up and right to a crack and then a ledge. Continue to the top at 5.9 passing a pin. Two pin anchor. 40'
Descent- Rappel from the summit to the top of pitch 3. Then down to a two pin anchor on slabs to the climbers right of the pitch 1 belay. Then to the ground.
Pitch 2- Climb up from the belay on 5.8 passing a pin to a pin ladder. Belay at a 3 pin anchor on a small stance. 60'
Pitch 3-Climb the rotten crack directly above your belayer passing some suspect fixed gear along the way. Aid out an overhang and finish the pitch on a ledge with a two pin anchor. A2+ 110'
NOTE: Combine pitches 2 and 3 if you don't want to hit your belayer with rocks.
Pitch 4- Climb 5.8 up and right to a crack and then a ledge. Continue to the top at 5.9 passing a pin. Two pin anchor. 40'
Descent- Rappel from the summit to the top of pitch 3. Then down to a two pin anchor on slabs to the climbers right of the pitch 1 belay. Then to the ground.
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