Start by stemming between the two sections of the tower. There's no pro for the first little bit, but it's super easy. Clip two drilled pitons on the main formation and then step across, do a couple moves, and you're at the anchors.
See topo pic.
The route starts on the east side of the tower at the obvious cleft between the two parts of the formation. One (two, if you're looking from the right angle) drilled pins high up can be seen from the ground .
#4 Camalot, #3 Camalot, shoulder-length sling (I had to lengthen it with a quickdraw...), a couple quickdraws or slings for the drilled pitons.
|Comments on Original Route
|By Tristan Higbee|
Mar 16, 2009
I had looked at this a lot in Desert Rock III but the lack of any other information put me off. One weekend when I couldn't find a partner to climb with I decided to find this tower and climb it. It has two drilled pins on top, not one as stated in the Bjornstad guide.
This actually seemed a little bit harder than 5.7 to me... Maybe 5.8, but definitely no harder than that. This is probably the easiest summit in the Fishers. It's pretty safe, easy, and fun.
|By Eric Odenthal|
Nov 8, 2009
Fun tower. cool moves involving stemming. the first piece is up a ways, I tied off the bolts, they stick out a little to far to clip the eyes... which seems to be the way of the fishers. Anchor replaced 11.7.09.
Mar 21, 2010
I placed a #3 Camalot and a #4 Camalot, with long slings, below the pins (bolts? I can't remember). The step across is harder for the vertically challenged. My 6'2" son had no trouble, but I could reach nothing to hold on to.
|By paul bucher|
From: moab, utah
Nov 17, 2012
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- VS 4c R
what a fun little tower. put this on your to do list. run out. i got one #3 camalot below the first pin. i agree with eric about the pins (theres two). there were two more for the anchor. 5.7+++ or just call it easy 5.8 move.
|By Eric Klammer|
From: Boulder, CO
Apr 24, 2013
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b PG13
Fun little route! A little bit of a crypto dodging, wash scrambling hike in, but well worth it! Don't expect any good pro until clipping the first piton. I got in an okay #3 and slung a horn but both were extended so far they would have done little good. After the pitons are clipped through yourself across and hope for the best! From there it's an easy scramble to the top!