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Coffeepot Rock
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Original Route 
South Spout Route 

Original Route 

YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 6 pitches, 400', Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Dan Bingham, G. Parker
Page Views: 1,325
Submitted By: Kole DeCou on Mar 9, 2006
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Coffee Pot Rock. The original route starts on the...

Description 

A nice casual outing. Not much technical climbing, but fun and the summit has a great view. The cruxes are very short and well protected, so it feels easier than the 5.9 grade. Pitch 1 gets all day shade, the rest of the route is in the sun.

P1) 5.8 150' Up the chimney. Longer and more fun than it appears. Save a #4 or #5 Camalot (new sizes) for the top.

P2) 5.5 -50' Either rap or down climb to the ledge on the south side of the formation.

P3) Class 1 50' Hike around the corner to the left until you're stopped by a short wall at the head of a gully.

P4) 5.8 50' Climb the wall (10'), set a piece for your follower, and hike down and to the right through some cacti and agave to a bolted belay. Keeping your rope out of the nasty plants may be the crux of the entire climb.

P5) 5.9- 30' Fun face climbing leads to a ledge. Belay here or suffer drag.

P6) 5.9- 150' Go up the crack with the bush and continue up 4th class to the summit.

Descent (2 ropes):
Rap 1: 50' From the summit rap to the ledge at the start of the 4th class. Walk clockwise 100'. There is a 2 chain anchor on a ledge about 50' below the summit on the west end of the rock. This anchor is visible from the summit plateau.

Rap 2: 180' CAUTION! 60m ropes do not get you to the next bolted rap station. Rap to the huge ledge 100' down, then continue down the blank face to a bush with slings.

Rap 3: 50' From the bush a short rap gets you to the bolted station.

Rap 4: 150' One more rap gets you to the ground.


Location 

Park at the Soldier Pass Trail head. Head north down the Soldier Pass jeep road. After a few minutes you'll see Forest Road 9904B on the right and Tea Pot trail on the left. Go left on Tea Pot trail. After a few more minutes look for a small side trail heading right at a group of boulders. This trail will cross a indistinct wash shortly. Go left into this wash and look for a fairly good trail heading toward the nose of Coffee Pot. When the trail gets closest to the spout, leave the trail and head toward the base of the rock. For Original Route contour right around the base of the cliff passing under the Spout Route and an ugly chimney system until you reach a large obvious gully where the cliff turns. Go up this and all the way around until you see a deep chimney/cleft in fairly clean rock. This is the start of the route.
GPS: 34,53.131 N 111,47.554 W


Protection 

Nuts, 1 each to #5 or #6 Camalot (new sizes)



Photos of Original Route Slideshow Add Photo
The "Indiana Jones" chimney that starts the route.
BETA PHOTO: The "Indiana Jones" chimney that starts the route.
Nestor Garcia in the upper part of first pitch chimney.
Nestor Garcia in the upper part of first pitch chi...
Comments on Original Route Add Comment
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By Zach Harrison
Dec 7, 2013

From Pitch 4 in the route description if you continue up to the left to a big ledge on the north side of the Coffee Pot there is a direct pitch to the summit that cuts out all the runout junk on the Original Route. It's a single pitch of 5.10 ish climbing up and out a roof near the rap station. It starts at a short broken pillar and makes a "C". It ends 10' left of the rap station about 40' below the summit on a big ledge. Gear is mostly bolts but bring some extra fingers and your hand sized cams and some slings. Pretty fun. I think the easiest way off the formation is rapping and down (up?) climbing the Original route, with a single 70M its ~25 feet of easy chimmey soloing right to your packs.

By manuel rangel
From: Tempe, Arizona
Apr 11, 2014

The bush has been replaced by a bolted anchor. Bring double 60s for this one.