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 ADVANCED
River Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Adventure Kayak Trundle S 
Beach Front T 
Bottom Side Down S,TR 
Clear Water Revival S 
Evil S 
Float Trip S 
Flood Control S 
Grilled Trout S,TR 
Human Rites S 
Muddy Waters S 
Old Man River S 
Original Route T 
Overflow S 
Put In, The S 
Right To Laugh S 
Right to Life S 
River Dance S 
River Grill S 
River Jam S 
River Mild, The S,TR 
River Walk T,S 
River Wild, The S 
Slacker S 
Splash S 
Take Me to the River S,TR 
Up A Creek T 
Viagra Falls S 
Water Sports S 
Water Sports Direct Start S 
White Water S 

Original Route 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 767
Submitted By: Alan Nelson on Sep 4, 2001

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Temporary closures near Fiscal Cliff: May-July 2014 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This route starts just to the right of "The Put In" on a fractured flake. Climb 5.9 friction past the two historic bolts (don't even think of falling or weighting these beauties!). Head left and finish up "The Put In", or traverse right across the slab until you can follow right-arching cracks up to the ledge near the top of "Old Man River". For the full old-time trad experience, traverse the ledge to the right, squeeze behind the block (the infamous "Snead Slot", head up the ramp, pull the overhang (at "Slacker"), traverse right on the slab above, then head up the left-facing dihedral capped by a roof to the top of the wall. This can be done in three long pitches, and leaves you with a nasty hike down off the top, or three interesting rappels (ring anchors) and a pitch or two of ledge traversing to get back down.

Protection 

Standard rack, two historic 1/4" bolts, occasional obscure fixed pins, and whatever modern sport bolts you chose to clip.


Comments on Original Route Add Comment
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By Ray Snead
Sep 5, 2001

Hey, I resemble that! It's a fine slot, but to what do I owe the honor?