Original Route (aka Gom Jabber) 

The rack could do without the tricams. Also, the 5.4-6 traverse exit pitches really aren't all that great. I would recommend the more direct exit. It will save you some lichen time.

This is a great climb to do in the fall when it's nice and dried out. The approach can be a little muddy and the top of the 5.11 pitch runs with a little water. This climb IMHO is a must do test peice for southern climbers.

A few clarifications:

P1- IGNORE THE BOLT! Pay attention to the guide book here and "begin directly below the tree on the ledge above" and you will find 5.7 slabbing with a possible gear placement mid pitch. Climbing past the bolt makes it closer to 5.9 slabbing and the pro isn't worth it. Having done both I'd recommend listing to the guide book but heck, if you are afraid of run out 9ish slab you wouldn't (shouldn't) be here!

P4- This is a one move wonder aptly referred to as a "5.9+" move in older guides. The move is right off the belay so place pro high w/a short leash so you don't bounce off the belay ledge if you blow it.

Direct finish- Heartily recommend doing this! It is much better climbing and in keeping with the route. As I remember it, we did the 5.9 past the 3 bolts then generally went straight up on 5.7 ish terrain with one #3 camalot placement in a headwall to the shrubbery at the top. Kind of run out finish but refer to P1 remarks.

A terriffic rout that you gotta do if you are in the area.

Did this one again this past weekend with a 70m. We were able to link P1 and P2 to the tree island, P3 and P4 to the base of the 9+ one move wonder, P5-6 to the base of the "Changing corner's" pitch, P-7-8 to the crux. The crux to the base of the overhanging 5.10- exit pitch, then to jungle fest. Route went pretty quick, 4hrs from base to summit.

In 1974, Peter Prandoni and I did the second ascent of this route - the only one on Whitesides at the time. Peter Young had given us a pretty basic idea of where to start and not much else. On the original ascent, Peter said there were three aid sections. The first difficult corner (with the very loose long spike of rock, the second above it and the bolt ladder on the last pitch. I took out the first aid section, freeing it and Peter took out the second aid section on his lead. We were led to believe that there were far more pitches - most likely I think we tended to do longer lead outs as the weather was pretty horrible with the first ascent guys - so we were quite suprised, once finishing the ladder, we ran it out to the top. Over 1974 and 1975 I climbed it four of five more times and we even spent the night on the ledge in the middle once enjoying a full moon looking out over Whitesides Cove. I never did figure out exactly how to get around the bolt ladder though got it down to using only two and spent most of my time looking left to try and get up that way.

I know I've read about the variation to the crux pitch, where you can go right and up. Last time I was on the OR, it looked covered in lichen and not well used. Anyone ever done it?

A good intro route to the cliffside. It follows the easiest line, which ends up wandering a bit much for my lichen (hehe). We did it with 70m rope, which isnt necessary. I've heard of people using half ropes and simul-climbing the route, which if I were to repeat it, I would do it in this style. The crux 5.11a stumped me, which was frustrating. I was looking left, but I noticed someone said to look right in an earlier post. Beats me, I just assume a crucial hold fell off. I believe we used a singles rack, no tricams (I have no idea how to use those things anyways). Lots of lichen and run outs with marginal gear, but over super fun terrain. I reccomend finishing on Traditions. The juggy 5.10 finish is fun. Might as well get one more pitch of good climbing in while you are there.