|Y - North Side
Climb up the crack shared with the start for Herb's Roof, or climb blocks to the right. One of the variations climbs near faint rock art. Avoid touching or standing on the faint petroglyph on the ramp! You reach a good rest below a slick open book corner with a finger crack in the back, and a finger crack on the left side. Stem and squirm until you reach the next good handholds.
It's a good practice for the crux of the area classic, Open Book whose crux is in the same style as this one.
This crack is the next dihedral right of Beastie Crack
Cams to 3". 1 set nuts. Finger size cams are especially useful at the crux.
Bring your own gear for the anchor, or use static rope and anchor off trees (many of which are dying).
|By Ed Santiago|
Aug 19, 2013
So, I'm not a geologist or any sort of expert, but the crack along the left side of the open book (halfway up) is distinctly wider than it was 4-5 weeks ago. I don't know how stable this kind of rock is, but if it were to fall it might ruin someone's day. Anyone qualified to take a look-see and comment further?