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 ADVANCED
Y - North Side
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Beastie Crack T,TR 
Boy Scout (aka Broadway) T,TR 
Flat-footed T,TR 
Hard Start TR 
Herb's Roof T,TR 
Hessing Route T,TR 
Inside Dihedral T,TR 
Left Mother T,TR 
Less-Hard Start T,TR 
Lizard Man T 
Middle Mother T,TR 
Nose, The TR 
Notch, The T,TR 
Open Book T,TR 
Original Open Book T,TR 
Porter Route T 
Ramp, The T,TR 
Rigid Deffacator T 
Triple Overhang T,TR 
Wisconsin T,TR 

Original Open Book 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8- French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 14 British: VS 4c [details]
FA: Len Margolin & Steve Schum, 1970(?)
Page Views: 290
Submitted By: George Perkins on Apr 2, 2008

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Description 

Climb up the crack shared with the start for Herb's Roof, or climb blocks to the right. One of the variations climbs near faint rock art. Avoid touching or standing on the faint petroglyph on the ramp! You reach a good rest below a slick open book corner with a finger crack in the back, and a finger crack on the left side. Stem and squirm until you reach the next good handholds.

It's a good practice for the crux of the area classic, Open Book whose crux is in the same style as this one.


Location 

This crack is the next dihedral right of Beastie Crack


Protection 

Cams to 3". 1 set nuts. Finger size cams are especially useful at the crux.
Bring your own gear for the anchor, or use static rope and anchor off trees (many of which are dying).



Comments on Original Open Book Add Comment
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By Ed Santiago
Aug 19, 2013

CONDITION REPORT 

So, I'm not a geologist or any sort of expert, but the crack along the left side of the open book (halfway up) is distinctly wider than it was 4-5 weeks ago. I don't know how stable this kind of rock is, but if it were to fall it might ruin someone's day. Anyone qualified to take a look-see and comment further?