Original Open Book  5.8

230 page views Good page?

Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 40 feet Consensus:  5.8 [details] FA:  Len Margolin & Steve Schum, 1970(?) Submitted By:  George Perkins on Apr 2, 2008 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Add Photo  Add Comment    Printer View

Description 

Climb up the crack shared with the start for Herb's Roof, or climb blocks to the right. One of the variations climbs near faint rock art. Avoid touching or standing on the faint petroglyph on the ramp! You reach a good rest below a slick open book corner with a finger crack in the back, and a finger crack on the left side. Stem and squirm until you reach the next good handholds.

It's a good practice for the crux of the area classic, Open Book whose crux is in the same style as this one.

Location 

This crack is the next dihedral right of Beastie Crack

Protection 

Cams to 3". 1 set nuts. Finger size cams are especially useful at the crux.
Bring your own gear for the anchor, or use static rope and anchor off trees (many of which are dying).