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Y - North Side
Routes Sorted
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Beastie Crack 
Boy Scout (aka Broadway) 
Hard Start 
Herb's Roof 
Hessing Route 
Inside Dihedral 
Left Mother 
Less-Hard Start 
Lizard Man 
Middle Mother 
Nose, The 
Notch, The 
Open Book 
Original Open Book 
Porter Route 
Ramp, The 
Rigid Deffacator 
Triple Overhang 

Original Open Book 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Len Margolin & Steve Schum, 1970(?)
Page Views: 283
Submitted By: George Perkins on Apr 2, 2008
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Climb up the crack shared with the start for Herb's Roof, or climb blocks to the right. One of the variations climbs near faint rock art. Avoid touching or standing on the faint petroglyph on the ramp! You reach a good rest below a slick open book corner with a finger crack in the back, and a finger crack on the left side. Stem and squirm until you reach the next good handholds.

It's a good practice for the crux of the area classic, Open Book whose crux is in the same style as this one.


This crack is the next dihedral right of Beastie Crack


Cams to 3". 1 set nuts. Finger size cams are especially useful at the crux.
Bring your own gear for the anchor, or use static rope and anchor off trees (many of which are dying).

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By Ed Santiago
Aug 19, 2013


So, I'm not a geologist or any sort of expert, but the crack along the left side of the open book (halfway up) is distinctly wider than it was 4-5 weeks ago. I don't know how stable this kind of rock is, but if it were to fall it might ruin someone's day. Anyone qualified to take a look-see and comment further?