Original North Face Route 

To expand on Greg's description -

Pitch one and two as described can easily be combine into one pitch. Belay below the wide slot which leads into the large left facing corner system. There is one bolt here and a crack that will take 2" to 4" gear.

The descent can be accomplished with one 60m rope. The first rappel is about 100' to a large ledge. Scramble from here to the second rappel anchor. A second 100' rappel puts you in the middle of the 4th class approach pitch.

Does anyone have beta on the direct start to this route?

To expand Will's description.... this can easily be done in 2 pitches!

The line of the direct start is visible in the topo photo/drawing. Note the lower ledge system that heads out right from way below the start of the Original Route, and follows the face/rt facing corner to the belay at the base of the wide bit of the O Rt. (where it says 5.6 on the topo)

Head out right on a sandstone ledge system for 60+ feet (it's been a while, sorry about the foggy memory). It's mostly 4th class with a bit of exposed low 5th to a bolted belay on a big ledge.

Climb up corner system and out right on the face, passing 1 (2?) bolts to a sweet hand crack behind a monster flake to another (optional?) bolted belay.

Continue up finger crack to limestone overhangs and belay at the wide crack belay of O Rt.

I climbed this route without bolts, by mistake, back in 2000. After finding several pieces of gear that O Rt climbers had dropped, we called it the Booty Chute variation when we went back to bolt it. It offers really fun climbing in the 5.7-8 grade.

We did the raps with one 60 meter rope. Agree with the wide Climbing not pretty just a dirty fight with the rock. Great summit though. A solid climb.

I have a love/hate relationship with this climb. Every time I rap off this climb I swear to all who are listening that I will NEVER climb/grovel up this P.O.S EVER again. A year later I'm on the first pitch wondering why is hated this thing so much...it's so great.

If you have solid off-width technique then this should be an easy climb...if you are lacking in the OW department they you will grovel, curse, scratch and scrape all your gear and backpack, and know what it feel like being born as you squeeze your body through the pitch 4 crux.

The feeling and view at the summit is well worth the effort.

Dr. Rubos & The Mace are great warm ups for this one :)

Combing pitch 1 and 2 is pretty easy. Communication is a little bad, but even with a lot of wind we were still able to communicate. The crux in my mind is getting out of the traverse into that offwidth crack at the start of pitch 3(or pitch two the way we did it). That to me was more awkward then anything I have ever done. A #5 might have been nice on the last pitch, but just bury the #4 in deeper. I have heard lots of bad things about this climb but I actually found it to be quite enjoyable. Awesome summit!

An awesome pretty easy climb, hardest part of the day way the approach. We got lost attempting to head straight up to the saddle between the two spires directly from the Chapel. As far as the approach goes, it would have been way easier to take the Chapel trail to where it intersects with Little Horse and head left (northeast), wrapping behind the two spires and approach from there. Thats how we got down at least.

As for the climb wouldn't bring anything bigger than a #3 Camalot. I found the off-width to be pretty straightforward and enjoyable. The hardest part of the climb I thought was the slab before the off-width on the last pitch, one risky move over harder to protect rock.