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The original line of the Beckey route, starting up what is now p1 of Fine Line, and then going up a hard stemming pitch to join what is now the Direct Beckey. Most people do the Direct Beckey or Fine Line instead.
FFA(pitch one): Greg Lowe, Jeff Lowe, 1972
FFA(entire route): Reid Dowdle, Paul Potters, 1985 or 1986
center of the SW face
standard rack; several fixed pins on the crux stemming pitch.
BETA PHOTO: Elephant's Perch - SW Face, Right
14. The Thorn B...
BETA PHOTO: topo of first 5 pitches by Reid Dowdle, with some ...
Such a cool stemming corner
stemming corner from below
|Comments on Original Beckey
|By Darren Mabe|
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Aug 10, 2008
what are the pitch lengths in the topo? linking options? anyone done the P4 stem corner recently? how are the pins? thanks.
Jul 23, 2009
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII E4 6a
Climbed the P4 stem corner as a variation to the Direct Beckey July 20 2009. An excellent option. The first 4 pins or so look pretty good and I was able to supplement them with small nuts. The last pin looks a little suspect, I wouldn't have wanted to whip on it. Just hang on at the top.
|By dave bingham|
Jun 28, 2012
Having done these routes several times, Clint's route description may be a little confusing.
The "Original Beckey" is, of course, the line Fred Becky did on the first ascent. The "Direct" was done decades later after free attempts on the original line failed. In the early 90's bolts and pins were added to the first and third pitches, and the "Original Beckey" became free - and well-protected.
The "Direct" starts lower and left of the original and joins it after 3 pitches. From that point you have the option of joining the Original route (the stemming corner)or one more straight up via a blocky/loose .10 crack before joining the "Original".
The "Fine Line" follows the original Beckey Route for two pitches,but continues up the diagonal crack line.The Beckey steps left on p. 2 to the belay below the previously mentioned 3rd-pitch corner.
We did the route 7-22-12 and fixed pins seem to be in decent shape.
Folks hesitate to alter ratings but here is my 2 cents.
P-1 5.11d: sustained climbing w slabbly corner crux.
P-2 5.10c: Great stem and finger cracks.
P-3 5.11c/d: full-on stemming past fixed pins and small gear.
P-4 5.10d: climbing direct above the belay, not via the flake to the right.
P-5/6 and up: solid 5.10 crack climbing.
P-7 to 10: Easier..but not over!