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Redgarden - S Buttress
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Original Anthill 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 200'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Dale Johnson and Dick Bird, 1956
Season: Any time rock is warm and dry!
Page Views: 1,344
Submitted By: Rodger Raubach on Mar 12, 2011

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...and the ramp becomes more spacious.
  • Subject to Seasonal Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>
  • Climbing reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    Starting from the big Juniper on the Juniper Ledge, follow the rotten red ramp up and left to the end. Establish a belay here for the exposed climbing that follows. Make an exposed step out and around the end of the ledge onto the face, staying high beneath a small roof; continue up to a good ledge. Possibly belay here to diminish rope drag. This route zig zags around some. Follow a good crack, that had 2 still-good pitons, back right to the arete and another old piton. Slant up and left to a belay beneath an overhang. Traverse left to a tree and then up to complete the route.

    Downclimb the massive East slabs to get off.


    Location 

    This starts from the "Juniper ledge" at the end of the first pitch (60 meter rope; if done with a 50 meter rope, it will require 2 pitches)of "Pseudosidetrack." Downclimb East Slabs to the North. Awesome exposure for an easy route!


    Protection 

    Normal rack of wired stoppers, and a couple cams to #2 Camalot or "Friends."



    Photos of Original Anthill Slideshow Add Photo
    A nicely exposed bit.
    A nicely exposed bit.
    Pseudo Sidetrack start.
    Pseudo Sidetrack start.
    Interesting tree remnant on the Anthill ramp.
    Interesting tree remnant on the Anthill ramp.
    Looking down the Pseudo Sidetrack ramp.
    Looking down the Pseudo Sidetrack ramp.
    A sign that you're on route.
    A sign that you're on route.
    Views of Wind Tower.
    Views of Wind Tower.
    The Anthill Original/Direct split (Direct goes up the lieback crack; Direct continues along the ramp).
    BETA PHOTO: The Anthill Original/Direct split (Direct goes up ...
    Nearing the Pseudo Sidetrack split.
    Nearing the Pseudo Sidetrack split.
    The scariest part: the choss traverse.
    The scariest part: the choss traverse.
    Where Anthill and Pseudo Sidetrack split (aka Juniper Junction); Anthill continues up the left-trending ramp.
    BETA PHOTO: Where Anthill and Pseudo Sidetrack split (aka Juni...
    One of the right-trending finger cracks.
    One of the right-trending finger cracks.
    Looking back toward the park entrance.
    Looking back toward the park entrance.
    The ramp traverse to the Redgarden finish.
    BETA PHOTO: The ramp traverse to the Redgarden finish.
    Looking toward Walker Ranch.
    Looking toward Walker Ranch.
    The slightly grungy chimney finish.
    The slightly grungy chimney finish.
    Comments on Original Anthill Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Rodger Raubach
    Mar 19, 2011

    This is a good moderate route on which to avoid the crowds on a weekend. Decent climbing and some great exposure, too.

    By Rodger Raubach
    Jun 1, 2011

    I just responded to an email and answered a question about the start of this route. My description above assumed that the "first pitch" of Pseudo Sidetrack was done using a 60 meter rope, up to the juniper ledge formerly called "Sidetrack Junction." BITD, this was 2 moderate pitches, and another short lead out to the end of the red ramp.

    Hope this clarifies things a bit.

    By Bill Olszewski
    From: Colorado Springs, CO
    Jan 3, 2012

    According to Levin, the FA is Dale Johnson and Dick Bird, 1956, just one week after the FA of Redgaurd. There's a great story regarding the name of this route, in Levin's "Eldorado Canyon, a Climber's Guide."

    By fossana
    From: Bishop, CA
    Jan 29, 2012
    rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

    Adding some clarification to the route description here:

    P1-2 From the saddle between Redgarden and Whale's Tail, take the right-trending ramp that is shared with Pseudo Sidetrack. You will come to a large ledge with 2 pine trees (Sidetrack Junction).

    P3 From Sidetrack Junction, take the next left-trending ramp.

    P4 Delicately step around the corner on rotten, exposed, but easy rock, and hand traverse slightly up and left to join Anthill Direct. From here, follow a right-trending thin crack (5.7) then up a scooped face ending at a small ledge below a dihedral/roof (the Direct 5.9- crux) with a ramp heading off left.

    P5 Follow the ramp system left, staying on the path of least resistance over blocks and up a final short chimney to the summit.