Home - Destinations - iPhone/Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Red Wall
Select Route:
A Stroke of Brilliance 
Amphetamine Grip 
Animal Farm 
Bay of Pigs 
Bill's Flake 
Breakdown in Paradise 
Chairman Mao's Little Red Book 
Chouinard's Crack (1st Half Pitch of Peking) 
Commie Pinkos 
Dances with Clams 
Dirty Pinkos 
Finger Puppet 
Fingers of Fate 
Flex 
Gulag Archipelago 
Lets Face It 
Moscow 
Orgasmophoria 
Papillion 
Peking 
Phantasmagoria 
Pop Art 
Ride The Lightning 
Sole Survivor 
Straight Outta' Peking 
Super Slab 

Orgasmophoria 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 120'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Ted Stahl, Jeff Frizzell, Brett Yost 2003
Page Views: 1,164
Submitted By: Bryson Slothower on Apr 3, 2006
Good Page? 1 person likes this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (14)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Seasonal Raptor Closure 2012 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Start at the top of Phantasmagoria and climb one more long pitch to the top of the formation.

The line goes through some suspect rock but has fun moves, great exposure, and is well protected.

Rap down Super Slab with two ropes.


Location 

Left of Dancing with Clams above Phantasmagoria.


Protection 

13 bolts and an anchor



Comments on Orgasmophoria Add Comment
Show which comments
By Bryson Slothower
Sep 18, 2006

I watched a party get stuck on this route by trying to rap. The top anchor is not set up for rappelling and if it were the rap would require two ropes.

The party I watched struggle had the leader climb the second pitch and attempt to rap back to his partner anchored in atop the first pitch. After threading the bolts up top the leader rapped with one rope and found himself far from the anchor with a stuck rope and a stranded partner.

By Nate Ball
Administrator
From: Taipei, TW
May 1, 2012
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ E2 5b

Fun for the exposure. Mostly easier terrain, with a high crux on good holds (look left). Beware of suspect rock... there are still big pieces coming off. If you lead it, you'll probably be chatting with people coming up Super Slab. Try to beat them to the rap... or wait in line.

Attempting to walk off could very well end in disaster. Rap Super Slab instead: two ropes or a 70m+downclimb.

By Paul Trendler
From: Bend, Oregon
Jun 10, 2012

I personally think that disaster is a bit much for the walk off. The gulley has maybe two moves of 5.7 climbing as you top out the slab, then your hiking again. I agree it is certianly faster to rap, but the walk of is not x rated at all.

By BSwett
From: Bend, Or.
Mar 16, 2013

Exiting those Red Wall climbs is a pain in the ass. That chossy downclimb to the superslab first anchors is ugly and potentially deadly. If I had a drill, i'd go set a safe lowering station down Orgasmophoria or Bay of Pigs. Something.

By pdxuller
Jul 31, 2013

Fun 53m pitch to top out. As other comments have said, bring 2 60m ropes and rappel Super Slab ** maybe its not super slab but there are rap anchors over on the right, not far away. Do not rap the top of Orgasmaphoria - your ropes will get stuck. You can access the Super Slab rap anchors by walking right from the top of Orgasmaphoria, although they are out of view at first.

By Bryan Hall
From: Bend, Oregon
Aug 11, 2013

I agree, it would be nice if rap anchors were added to this route. It's also not noted in the guidebook that the walk off is sketch and that rappelling requires a different anchor and two ropes.

I got caught in a lightning storm on this one a few days ago and was pissed to be improvising a rapid decent because of the lack of info on this route! Should have checked MP...

By Max Tepfer
From: Bend, OR
Aug 11, 2013

I literally just climbed this route and have gone up and down Super Slab every way imaginable so let me clarify some myths here in the comments:

"I personally think that disaster is a bit much for the walk off. The gulley has maybe two moves of 5.7 climbing as you top out the slab, then your hiking again." Paul is spot on. You could even protect these moves if you wanted to with small to medium wires or cams. NBD.

If rappelling: "...bring 2 60m ropes and rappel Super Slab." Not true. I just rapped this with one rope. The first rap is short to a new-ish anchor about 20-30' down on the climber's right.

"That chossy downclimb to the superslab first anchors is ugly and potentially deadly." This is easily avoided by either (a) using the anchor mentioned above or (b) using the fixed sling anchor ~30m below the initial rap station to the ledge.