|933 page views|
Good page? (1 like)
Start at the top of Phantasmagoria and climb one more long pitch to the top of the formation.
The line goes through some suspect rock but has fun moves, great exposure, and is well protected.
Rap down Super Slab with two ropes.
Left of Dancing with Clams above Phantasmagoria.
13 bolts and an anchor
|Comments on Orgasmophoria
|By Bryson Slothower|
Sep 18, 2006
I watched a party get stuck on this route by trying to rap. The top anchor is not set up for rappelling and if it were the rap would require two ropes.
The party I watched struggle had the leader climb the second pitch and attempt to rap back to his partner anchored in atop the first pitch. After threading the bolts up top the leader rapped with one rope and found himself far from the anchor with a stuck rope and a stranded partner.
|By Nate Ball|
From: Taipei, TW
May 1, 2012
Fun for the exposure. Mostly easier terrain, with a high crux on good holds (look left). Beware of suspect rock... there are still big pieces coming off. If you lead it, you'll probably be chatting with people coming up Super Slab. Try to beat them to the rap... or wait in line.
Attempting to walk off could very well end in disaster. Rap Super Slab instead: two ropes or a 70m+downclimb.
|By Paul Trendler|
From: Bend, Oregon
Jun 10, 2012
I personally think that disaster is a bit much for the walk off. The gulley has maybe two moves of 5.7 climbing as you top out the slab, then your hiking again. I agree it is certianly faster to rap, but the walk of is not x rated at all.
From: Bend, Or.
Mar 16, 2013
Exiting those Red Wall climbs is a pain in the ass. That chossy downclimb to the superslab first anchors is ugly and potentially deadly. If I had a drill, i'd go set a safe lowering station down Orgasmophoria or Bay of Pigs. Something.