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Ted's about halfway up direct. i'm on the bluff on...
Yet another classic DL lead. Climb to the right of Orgasm. I seem to remember pretty good gear and a fixed pin (pin is gone now). Good luck and pull down, cut loose and throw up !@##
Usual DL stuff.
photographer agnes szara
this climb was fun
|Comments on Orgasm Direct
|By JJ Schlick|
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Nov 15, 2006
I think the crux piece is a blue metolious tcu stuck straight in perpendicular to the wall.
|By Seth Dyer|
Nov 16, 2006
It was a purple Metolious that saved my a$$ (especially since the piece below it got yanked out) when I took a fall on my first attempt. Stuck straight into a pin scar I think....
|By Sean Luster|
Sep 17, 2007
I really enjoyed this route on TR, though it wore the hell out of my fingers. Really there are 2 main problems
1) the early couple of moves, which aren't particularly difficult but because of the sharpness of the crimp are pretty unpleasent
2) the very thin crack climb at the crux of the route - this felt like a gym climb to me, from the very precise sequence that I needed to follow (maybe a stronger climber can improvise but I needed to get every move right) to the very scant, but very important, footholds.
Once you get past the crux it's suddenly a 5.7 climb. I'd really recommend this route to anyone climbing in this range. Way over my head for trad so I can't comment on gear placement but it looked pretty sketchy
|By John W. Knoernschild|
Jun 12, 2009
Amazing climbing. Good rests. I'm not sure what sharp crimps you are speaking of Sean. I don't remember a single one that hurt, especially in the beginning. The crux is certainly a key sequence. Super technical feet, not like a gym climb (cause the gym is a mock of outside)...just typical Devil's Lake climbing.
|By randy baum|
From: Minneapolis, MN
May 24, 2010
seth, i second that. crux takes purple TCU. (just make sure you place it in the higher, deeper thin crack). also, take a red and orange cam for the horizontal below the crux. it's also nice to equalize them with a sliding x.
fun climb, with a fun (and easy) runout down low and nice and technical moves at the crux. do it!
From: Westminster, CO
Jun 4, 2011
Can't believe people lead this. Didn't have a problem on it on top rope until the crux half way up and I couldn't figure out the feet. Will try again.
|By Isaac Therneau|
From: Rochester, MN
Aug 9, 2012
rating: 5.11b R
Anyone know why this climb has never been "R" rated? "edit" Whelp, I'm going to be honest and give it an "R" as I recall placing three pieces and only one of them kept you off the deck while doing the crux.
|By Trad Nanny|
Aug 9, 2012
I tried to OS this one day, terrifying. It's probably "X"!
|By Andy Hansen|
From: Longmont, Colorado
Aug 9, 2012
Because you need a ballsack the size of Zeus' to lead this thing... and if you've got that, silly severity ratings don't apply to you.