O.R.G.asam 5.11a
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 90 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10d [details] |
| FA: | Scott Ayers & Doug Jaffe, 1989 |
| Submitted By: | C Miller on Oct 31, 2006 |
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O.R.G.asam (5.11a) in the Upper Gorge. Photo by Ty...
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Description Boulder up to a high first bolt (optional gear here) and then lieback your way up the splitter crack/flake to finish with a seam on a steep slab. Decent crack climbing skills will negate the need for anything but quickdraws, but if unsure take some gear.
Originally done with only a couple of bolts and gear (and rated 10d), this route slowly evolved over time as more bolts were added here and there, and now stands as a fully bolted and totally classic sport route.
Location This is the striking crack line on the right side of the Dihedrals, and is located between Bushfire (5.12c) and Slackjaw (5.10a).
Protection 10 bolts, anchors
O.R.G.asam (5.11a), Owens River Gorge.
Photo by Ty...
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Aaron Cassebeer on O.R.G.asm. Photo: Paisley Close
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Aaron Cassebeer climbing O.R.G.asm Photo: Paisley ...
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Having fun on my favorite route.
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By Isaac T.
From: Pasadena, CA
Dec 12, 2006
rating: 5.11a R
| This route seemed a little runout to me, the first 15 feet to the first bolt is a little sketchy. After that it is just hard pumpy laybacking. Super fun though, all the way to the end. |
By outdooreric
From: Lyons, CO
Mar 25, 2007
rating: 5.11a
| I always use a couple of pieces (.75" and 1.25") to supplement the spaced first two bolts. There are potential placements higher, but I haven't found them to be necessary. |
By John W. Knoernschild
From: Wisconsin
Jul 3, 2008
| Why is this crack bolted?? Why bolt a crack in the first place. I sport climb, but not cracks. Bolts belong on unprotectable faces, not on perfectly protectable cracks. |
By Russ Walling
From: www.FishProducts.com
Jul 3, 2008
| Since you are asking on each route, I'll post for each route:
The LADWP enforces a strict "no tradding" rule in the Gorge as part of the use agreement. Bolts only! First offense is a confiscation of any hardware deemed "Trad" and a $50.00 fine payable to the ASCA. |
By 1Eric Rhicard
Jul 3, 2008
| What happens when someone removes bolts to make a route a trad route? |
By Russ Walling
From: www.FishProducts.com
Jul 3, 2008
| The route is "closed" to climbing and the crack is put on the short list to be cemented up. |
By John W. Knoernschild
From: Wisconsin
Jul 4, 2008
| I asked on 2 routes. But then I noticed so many, I figured I would just ask in the main area. Thx again for responding. |
By Gaar
From: Springdale / Zion UT / Moab
Oct 17, 2008
| Great route....Did it on gear only this week....Really fun movement, on bulletproof rock. Rack= Single full set of stoppers, doubles or triples in Grey TCU - Orange TCU top slab is a little runout, you can get a good yellow TCU deep in a hold about 10feet past the lip and thats about it |
By Paul Rezucha
From: Alameda
Apr 13, 2009
| Russ,
Is it okay to use trad gear to supplement bolts if you feel they are a bit too far apart? Thanks! |
By J. Albers
From: Colorado
Oct 23, 2009
| Guys, zee Fish is F'ing with you. There ARE trad climbs in the Gorge. John, if they bolted it, there is probably a reason. The east side of the Sierra's have a great local community with a wide range of ethical stances. The locals do a great job of balancing trad and runout bolt ethics with modern sport climbing. Best. |
By Simon Hatfield
From: Los Angeles, CA
Aug 29, 2011
rating: 5.11a
| This route has 10 bolts. Hook anchors. |
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