Organization for the Organized  5.10

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Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 310 feet, Grade II Consensus:  5.10 [details] FA:  T. Phillips, L. Douglas, B. Grey Submitted By:  Orphaned on Jan 1, 2005 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Do not cross the pipe by the pumphouse. MORE INFO >>> Little Cottonwood Access Update Despite "no trespassing" signs climbers have been observed crossing the creek on the pipe at the traditional (pumphouse) parking for the Pentapitch/Coalpit areas. This pipe crossing is dangerous and a slip could be fatal. This area is privately owned and the SLCA has a positive relationship with the landowner. The bridge near Lisa falls is the preferred location to cross the creek. Down-canyon, the bridge leading to the south side near the Buzz bouldering area has been condemned by the Forest Service. Signs have been posted promising fines for tresspassers. We ask that you obey these signs and find an alternate route to your destination. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

This is a variation to Nanooks of the North or Refugees From Reality, which ever way you approach it. From Refugees climb up and left to large dirt shelf. From Nanooks walk to the right before the 5.10 pitches on the same dirt shelf. There is a bolted belay on the shelf. From bolted belay walk around the corner ( east) and start up the slab angling toward the corner/roof.

P1. Start on slab angling left to bolt, clip bolt, crank mini roof and move right onto the slab towards the left facing steep corner. Climb up the steep corner protecting it w/ TCU's to the stance above the tree. Reach up and find hard to see bolt. Climb straight up passing one more bolt to a fun finish. Make your way to anchor. 5.10

P2. From anchor crank hard start to get established on the slab. Follow seam/corner to the bolt. Move up and right pulling the steep section to get onto another slab. Climb up ino the corner, clip the bolt crank the move. Enjoy super fun dihedral climbing to anchor. 5.9+. Long 118'



Established in a funky half ass fashion of 1/2 ground up 1/2 not.

Protection 

Rack: QDs and a Standard rack with doubles on TCUs is nice. Bring a 70M rope. The rap from the top of the last pitch eats up the whole rope BE CAREFUL!! It is possible to rap from the mank on nanooks or from the dirt shelf bolted belay make a short rap (west) to Refugees top anchor.