Type: | TR, 40 ft (12 m) |
FA: | Sean Ferrell |
Page Views: | 3,870 total · 19/month |
Shared By: | Sean Patrick on Oct 21, 2007 |
Admins: | K Ice, Kris Gorny |
Your To-Do List:
Add To-Do ·
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Climbing permits are required for all group and individual climbers at Interstate State Park. Permits are free, and must be renewed each year.
Details
Individual Rock Climbing Permits (free):
Individual permits are available year-round at the park office. Weekends in May and daily Memorial Day through mid-October, permits are also available at the visitor center. Individual climbing permits are also available at the self pay kiosk near the visitor center.
Commercial Rock Climbing Permits (free):
Organized groups are required to obtain a new commercial climbing permit each year. This requires submitting a certificate of insurance with required liability limits and naming the State Of Minnesota as an additional insured party. Application forms are available by calling the park office at 651-539-4500. Requests for new commercial climbing permits should be submitted at least seven days prior to the climbing event to allow time to process the permit request.
dnr.state.mn.us/state_parks…
Minnesota State Parks strongly endorse a "clean climbing" philosophy. In all but very limited, pre-approved instances, placement of hardware will be limited to that which can be temporarily placed using the climber's fingers. All such protection must be placed and removed without altering the rock."
Individual permits are available year-round at the park office. Weekends in May and daily Memorial Day through mid-October, permits are also available at the visitor center. Individual climbing permits are also available at the self pay kiosk near the visitor center.
Commercial Rock Climbing Permits (free):
Organized groups are required to obtain a new commercial climbing permit each year. This requires submitting a certificate of insurance with required liability limits and naming the State Of Minnesota as an additional insured party. Application forms are available by calling the park office at 651-539-4500. Requests for new commercial climbing permits should be submitted at least seven days prior to the climbing event to allow time to process the permit request.
dnr.state.mn.us/state_parks…
Minnesota State Parks strongly endorse a "clean climbing" philosophy. In all but very limited, pre-approved instances, placement of hardware will be limited to that which can be temporarily placed using the climber's fingers. All such protection must be placed and removed without altering the rock."
Description
The solid, orangey gold rock to the left of Fallen Knight: it consists of three small boulder problems where each one is harder than the last. Starts with easy climbing up to a thin seam, which can be surmounted using a horizontal hand jam below, and making a high reach to good holds. An easy deadpoint leads to a horizontal crack.
The next section is the most fun - long reaches between a blank arete and a couple of sloping crimps, with the wall steadily tilting a little more overhanging as you go. This sets you up for the final six feet, and the crux, which involved some serious tomfoolery, not to mention a couple of weeks of doubt as to whether I would be able to do it.
Figuring out these moves was the most rewarding part of the process of putting up this route, so I'll leave the details out, but make sure to pull a couple of techy moves out of your quiver for the crux.
The last move is a nice little throw to the positive finish, and a boulder-style topout. The grade is just a guess - it isn't as painful as nearby Genetic Control, but was harder for me, and took a little longer.
A fun toprope on good orange rock that doesn't feel like most of the Taylor's Falls stuff. Ultimately, this is a route of entirely different character than anything else at the crag (and MN), and now a personal favorite.
The next section is the most fun - long reaches between a blank arete and a couple of sloping crimps, with the wall steadily tilting a little more overhanging as you go. This sets you up for the final six feet, and the crux, which involved some serious tomfoolery, not to mention a couple of weeks of doubt as to whether I would be able to do it.
Figuring out these moves was the most rewarding part of the process of putting up this route, so I'll leave the details out, but make sure to pull a couple of techy moves out of your quiver for the crux.
The last move is a nice little throw to the positive finish, and a boulder-style topout. The grade is just a guess - it isn't as painful as nearby Genetic Control, but was harder for me, and took a little longer.
A fun toprope on good orange rock that doesn't feel like most of the Taylor's Falls stuff. Ultimately, this is a route of entirely different character than anything else at the crag (and MN), and now a personal favorite.
1 Comment