6 years!? Seriously?! Come on, MN! I know it isn't the Eiger, but this thing is fun. I'm leaving again in about a year, and it would be nice if someone repeated this (and downgraded it to 12a) before I left. Someone step up for god's sake.
So the description I wrote in 2007:
The solid, orangey gold rock to the left of Fallen Knight: it consists of three small boulder problems where each one is harder than the last. Starts with easy climbing up to a thin seam, which can be surmounted using a horizontal hand jam below, and making a high reach to good holds. An easy deadpoint leads to a horizontal crack.
The next section is the most fun - long reaches between a blank arete and a couple of sloping crimps, with the wall steadily tilting a little more overhanging as you go. This sets you up for the final six feet, and the crux, which involved some serious tomfoolery, not to mention a couple of weeks of doubt as to whether I would be able to do it.
Figuring out these moves was the most rewarding part of the process of putting up this route, so I'll leave the details out, but make sure to pull a couple of techy moves out of your quiver for the crux.
The last move is a nice little throw to the positive finish, and a boulder-style topout. The grade is just a guess - it isn't as painful as nearby Genetic Control, but was harder for me, and took a little longer.
A fun toprope on good orange rock that doesn't feel like most of the Taylor's Falls stuff. Ultimately, this is a route of entirely different character than anything else at the crag (and MN), and now a personal favorite.
Left of Fallen Knight on the MN strip. I didn't use the large ledge a couple feet left of the route about halfway up.
build an anchor
|By Andrew Krosbakken|
Nov 12, 2008
I think this is in the guide book as Sinister Midget and 5.?.
I could be wrong but it sounds like what you said, this is what the giude book says:
Seven feet left of Fallen Knight is an overhanging bulge with a thin seam running through it. Surmound this to the horizontal overlap, then cut left or forge straight up.
From: Minneapolis, MN
Nov 15, 2008
yeah, thats the one. i changed the name when i got it clean on toprope (i asked around, farris, etc. and it seemed to be a tr fa), which was a little more than a year ago. you should do it, and tell us what you think! id love to hear if anyone else enjoys it as much as i did.
|By Andrew Krosbakken|
Nov 17, 2008
Nice work, ya Ill have to try that next time im up there.