Seasonal raptor closure at Monument Area MORE INFO >>>
Rock climbing is not allowed 1/4 mile either side of the Monument due to a nesting pair of Golden Eagles. The birds are using Staender Ridge as a perch therefore it is also within the closure area. The trail which is on the backside of the Monument is open to through traffic, but hiking is not allowed around the cliff faces.
Jeff on Latest Rage on a sunny and warm day in Nov...
Description
Most climbers start this classic arete route by veering in from the right onto the arete rather than the original direct start. Continuous technical arete moves highlight the climb. For myself, I've found the moves past the final bolt easiest on the left (the original crux), while the majority of climbers apparently find it easier to stay on the right side.
Location
The arete just left of Karate Crack, in front of the stair-steps.
Protection
4 Bolts and an optional 1.5 Friend above the last bolt (the climbing eases off soon after the last bolt, but if you're totally flamed, you could potentially fall off in the last 15+ feet to the anchors).
By Peter Franzen Administrator From: Portland, OR Apr 11, 2006 rating: 5.12b
This route is a blast, especially because when you get sick of falling out of the crux you can walk 10ft. to your left and fall out of the crux on Watt's Totts. ;)
By Wolfgang Braun From: Beavercreek, Oregon Oct 15, 2008 rating: 5.12b
Definitely sustained the whole way. I found the moves above the last bolt to be easier on the ft side of the arete as well.
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