Seasonal raptor closure at Monument Area MORE INFO >>>
Rock climbing is not allowed 1/4 mile either side of the Monument due to a nesting pair of Golden Eagles. The birds are using Staender Ridge as a perch therefore it is also within the closure area. The trail which is on the backside of the Monument is open to through traffic, but hiking is not allowed around the cliff faces.
The huge huecos of 5 Gallon Buckets are often the first piece of rock that a climber touches on his or her first trip to the park. The fun and consistent 5.8 climbing is straightforward and enjoyable as a warmup or a toprope. A Smith classic!
This is the left-most route on the big huecoed section of the wall. There's one bolt that can't be seen from the ground (it's in one of the big huecos), so remember to bring a 'draw for it.
Due to its central location and easy grade this is possibly the most popular route at Smith Rock. There is almost always a rope up on it and a crowd of people at the base. It receives early morning sun and keeps it all day, making it a good starting point for the cold days.
Protection
Route is protected by 7 bolts and a bolted anchor.
The bolt in the hueco is just cruel. When its cold enough that the rock feels like the metal, its easy to grab the hanger thinking its just a feature. Good warmup.
Is this another name for a route in the Watts guide, or is it newer than the guidebook?
By Monomaniac Administrator From: Morrison, CO Jan 22, 2008
This route was put up just as the 1992 Watts guide went to print. If you read the introduction to the Watts Guide carefully he mentions it by name, along with other late entries.
An awesome route that gets traffic seemingly 24/7. If you don't have to wait in line, you should buy a lottery ticket the same day. The relentless hiking does not diminish the awesome climbing however. And the shoe rubber filling up most the footholds should be of help to those lacking any footwork. If you're feeling a little more saucy, or just don't see the bolt hidden in the hueco, there's really no problem in running it out to the next bolt. This is Smith after all so it wouldn't hurt to get into the run-out spirit even on the warm-up 5.8's.
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