Great crack climbing followed by an exciting roof make this a highly memorable climb.
Start in a obvious crack just left of a flat face and right of a bolted column. Climb pleasant 5.9 hands with face holds up to a two bolt anchor with green chains...but don't stop there.
Clip the anchor and work up and into the roof above. Climb a finger crack through the roof to a nice ledge above with a bolted anchor. Best to belay from above and rap off.
Lower Gorge, East Columns, Shakespeare Cliff, look for the roof with green chains below it.
rack from .5" - 3"
Sep 21, 2007
A very nice route. One hard move comes right where things get overhung near the top and before crack opens to allow a finger lock (my opinion).