Cruel Sister 5.10a
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10a [details] |
| FA: | Mike Seeley, Wayne Arrington 1974 |
| Season: | Summer, Spring, Fall |
| Submitted By: | Karsten on Jan 29, 2006 |
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Ian low on Cruel Sister. Crack-a-no-go and Blood C...
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Description This is one of the Mega-classics of the gorge and Smith. It is one of the finest handcracks you'll ever do. The crack starts as tight hands and gradually widens to fists at the top. Easily the most popular climb in the gorge be prepared to wait for this climb on nice days. Still, the wait is worth it!!!
Protection Gear to 3.5 inches, couple of long slings for the anchor if TRing.
Chains at top
Shirley leading Cruel Sister.
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High on CS
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At the top of CS
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By rpc
Jan 30, 2006
| Gorgeous route! Best crack of the grade at Smith? |
By DonJuan
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 16, 2006
| Great climb, a bit underated for some (really 10c?), definitely challenging. Enjoy! |
By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Bend, OR
Oct 22, 2006
rating: 5.10a
| Wow, fun stuff. All sizes of hands on this one, including a wide move or two at the top. Definitely bring a #4 Camalot for the top, and you might want to save a #3 Camalot for the top as well. The rest of the climb takes as many #0.5 through #2 Camalots as you can throw at it. Way better than Karate Crack imo. |
By Bryan Gartland
From: Helena, MT
Dec 13, 2006
| Can you get away with just two sets of cams on this one?
~Thanks |
By pointy
From: at large
Dec 18, 2006
| You can get away with one set of cams if you know how to place nuts. The crack isn't splitter the whole way, so there are lots of passive gear placements and hand locks. As Andy said save a #4 Camalot for the top (or a big hex?). |
By Max Tepfer
From: Central Oregon
Mar 14, 2008
| I might be biased as my first real experience with the 5.10 grade came in the Lower Gorge, but the grade 10a is definitely consistent w/other routes in the gorge. (Bloodclot, 10b is very similar w/a slightly harder, more sustained crux, ditto for Badfinger, and Last Chance, 10c is easily two letter grades harder than Cruel Sister. If you climb at other trad areas in Oregon, these grades are actually kind of soft...) |
By Alex Quitiquit
From: Salt Lake City
May 29, 2013
rating: 5.10-
| Stout-ish for the grade as it doesn't really let up.
Save the #4 for the top, I didn't have it, wish I did. Takes nuts in a few places so look for them. |
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