Mountain Project: Climbing Broughton Bluff

View from under Sheer Stress of the belay zone in ...

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Broughton Bluff:

The Sickle 5.8 Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 40 feet

Edges and Ledges 5.8 Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60 feet

Loose Block Overhang 5.9 Trad, 2 pitches, 60 feet

Gandalf's Grip 5.9 Trad, 3 pitches, 200 feet, Grade II

Classic Crack 5.9 Trad, 1 pitch, 35 feet

Traffic Court 5.9 Trad, 1 pitch, 42 feet

Sheer Stress 5.10a Trad, 2 pitches, 90 feet

Red Eye 5.10b/c Sport, 60 feet

Lost Boys 5.10d Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet

Peach Cling 5.11b PG13 Trad, 2 pitches, 150 feet

Critical Mass 5.11c Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet

Mr. Bentley 5.11+ TR, 1 pitch, 30 feet

Pinhead 5.11d Sport, 1 pitch, 100 feet

Dracula 5.12a Sport, 1 pitch, 65 feet

Bloodline 5.12a Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet

Kashmir 5.12a Sport, 1 pitch, 100 feet

Bad Omen 5.12b Sport, 1 pitch, 65 feet

Bela Lugosi 5.12c Sport, 1 pitch, 65 feet

Manson Family Reunion 5.12d Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet

Dark Tower 5.13 Sport, 1 pitch, 102 feet

Featured Route For Broughton Bluff

mark d climbing bloodline on gear. photo by kevin rauch.

Bloodline 5.12a OR : Broughton Bluff

This striking and powerful line is one the best on the Bat wall. Containing power, balance, and finesse this route is a masterpiece. The opening moves are the hardest but upper moves still pack a punch. Begin up a very steep start below the remenants of a massive old beehive. This hive was removed long ago to reveal several very nice sharp incuts. (Route is also known a B-line or Beeline due to this) Continue up through a series of changing corners up to a huge roof. Traverse the roof and ...[more] Browse More Classics in OR

Photos of Broughton Bluff

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Kashmir <br /> <br />Red Wall, Broughton Bluff

Kashmir

Red Wall, Broughton Bluff

Beautiful day at Broughton Bluff

Comments on Broughton Bluff

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By Dannyr
Feb 14, 2006

Many areas in Oregon have poison oak, but Broughton is thick with the stuff. Watch out for it!

By Karsten
From: Sacramento, CA
Apr 14, 2006

Also, don't leave your stuff in the car. There have been numberous break-ins here with alot of gear getting stolen in the past. I myself have seen broken windows in the parking lot. It's sad but true. Just take everything with you or lock it up out of sight.

By Bryson Slothower
Aug 19, 2007

any info on the newer bolted line left of Traffic Court? 1st pitch felt 5.9 but the upper pitch looks hard...??

By Wolfgang Braun
From: Beavercreek, Oregon
Aug 13, 2008

It is called Dark Tower.

By doggy
Sep 9, 2008

WOW!! This is one of the best climbing areas in Portland. It offers a little bit of everything on good solid rock. The routes are interesting and fun...and although some may take a bit to figure out it'll only make you stronger.

By Peter Franzen
Administrator
From: Phoenix, AZ
Jan 29, 2009

I am in full agreement Matt. I think there's going to be great support in the community for the removal of the new bolts.

By peachy spohn
From: OR
Aug 26, 2010

I am trying to get the information about a route that begins up Dracula and then veers left after the bolt that is past the rail. I cleaned off the face (and the small roof it pulls over) and did the entire sequence of moves on TR. I would like to add a bolt to it for leading & was also wondering if the route has ever been done? I think Tom Scales?? may have bolted it.

Broughton Bluff

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