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Oregon  


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Location: 43.57838, -119.05341 View Map  Incorrect?
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Administrators: Peter Franzen, Nate Ball, Micah Klesick, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
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Welcome 

Welcome to Oregon! Not quite as sunny and granitic as its southerly neighbor, nor as glaciated and impressive as its northerly one, this state still holds its own must-visit destination: the world-famous Smith Rock.

The golden tuff is actually an exception to the otherwise overwhelming majority of basalt crags. Besides the lower gorge, the best crack climbing in the state is without a doubt Trout Creek. Metropolitan crags include Broughton Bluff and Carver, not to mention those on the Washington side. If you're looking for a big wall, Wolf Rock has what you're looking for. And any peak-bagger's journey would be incomplete without a slog up the south side of Mt. Hood.

There are numerous adventure crags scattered all over the state, from the secluded Rattlesnake in the southwest to the expansive Spring Mountain in the northeast. Get out there and check them out!

Area Breakdown 

All crags have been sorted into areas by region. These are fairly intuitive and hopefully make finding crags easier.

Central Oregon - east of the mountains, centered around Redmond
Smith Rock, Trout Creek, The Badlands, Power Lines, Steins Pillar, Shepards Tower, Central Oregon Bouldering

Mt Hood - National Forest and the crags therein
Mt. Hood, French's Dome, Bulo Point, Klinger Springs, Lost Lake Boulders, Coethedral, Pete's Pile, Salmon River Slab, Enola Hill, Ramona Creek Crag, Illumination Rock, Area 51

Northeast Oregon - borders Idaho, centered on La Grande
Spring Mountain, Fiddler's Hell, High Valley, Burnt River Canyon, Anthony Lakes, Wallowa Mountains, Pine Creek

Oregon Volcanoes - the line of fire from Jefferson to Thielsen
Goat Peak, Mt. Jefferson, Mt. Thielsen, Mt. Washington, Three Fingered Jack, Three Sisters

Portland & The Gorge - metropolitan area and the Columbia
Broughton Bluff, Carver, Rocky Butte, Rat Cave, Pike Boulders, Rooster Rock

Southwest Oregon - borders California, centered on Medford
Rattlesnake, The Callahans, Greensprings, Williamson River Cliffs, Pilot Rock, Emigrant Lake, Rabbit Ears

Willamette Valley - from Salem to Cottage Grove including the National Forest
Flagstone, Wolf Rock, The Garden, Moolack, Hills Creek Spires, Skinner Butte, Harlen Rock Quarry, Canyon Creek, Mary's Peak

Climbing gyms in Oregon 

Portland metro area:
The Circuit SW
The Circuit NE
Stoneworks
Portland Rock Gym
Club Sport

Eugene:
The Crux

Bend:
Bend Rock Gym

Medford:
Rogue Rock Gym

Climbing Season



Weather station 0.4 miles from here

1,540 Total Routes

['4 Stars',203],['3 Stars',634],['2 Stars',455],['1 Star',155],['Bomb',7]
['<=5.6',105],['5.7',99],['5.8',127],['5.9',157],['5.10',449],['5.11',262],['5.12',165],['5.13',52],['>=5.14',6],['',0],['<=V1',7],['V2-3',45],['V4-5',26],['V6-7',11],['V8-9',12],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',2],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Oregon:
The North Face   WI3+ Mod. Snow R     Trad, Ice, Snow, Alpine, 3 pitches, 5300'   Mt Hood : Mt. Hood
Spiderman   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 2 pitches, 180'   Smith Rock : Spiderman Buttress
Pioneer Route   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b C0     Trad, Sport, Aid, 3 pitches, 250'   Smith Rock : Monkey Face
5 Gallon Buckets   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Smith Rock : Morning Glory Wall
Voyage of the Cowdog   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 3 pitches, 260'   Smith Rock : Shipwreck Wall
Moonshine Dihedral   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 2 pitches, 90'   Smith Rock : The Dihedrals
Wherever I May Roam   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 5 pitches, 400'   Smith Rock Group : Northwest Face
Gold Rush   5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 70'   Trout Creek : The Main Wall
Zion   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 4 pitches, 350'   Smith Rock : Morning Glory Wall
JR Token   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 65'   Trout Creek : The Main Wall
Nine Gallon Buckets   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 2 pitches, 90'   Smith Rock : Morning Glory Wall
Pure Palm   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 80'   West Side : Wildfire Wall
Vomit Launch   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch   Smith Rock : Cocaine Gully
Toxic   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   Smith Rock : Aggro Gully
Monkey Space   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 2 pitches, 100'   Smith Rock : Monkey Face
Dreamin'   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   Smith Rock : The Christian Brothers
Spank the Monkey   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13     Sport, 1 pitch, 85'   Smith Rock : Monkey Face
Chain Reaction   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   Smith Rock : The Dihedrals
Heinous Cling   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   Smith Rock : The Dihedrals
To Bolt Or Not To Be   5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a     Sport, 1 pitch, 135'   Smith Rock : The Dihedrals
Browse More Classics in Oregon

Featured Route For Oregon
Chris K. climbing one of the best 5.11's at Carver...

Uncola 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a  OR : Portland & The Gorge : ... : Rockgarden Wall
This route presents a series of tenuous moves up a shallow dihedral. The crux involves moves through seam to a sloping rail. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in OR

Photos of Oregon Slideshow Add Photo
Matt boulderin at Viewpoint Cliffs
Matt boulderin at Viewpoint Cliffs
I can't remember where this was, but it's somewher...
I can't remember where this was, but it's somewher...
Crater Lake, I think in 2001.  Amazing place.  Wiz...
Crater Lake, I think in 2001. Amazing place. Wiz...
Smith Rock
Smith Rock
Callahans
Callahans
somewhere in Oregon CRACKHEADS like this come a di...
somewhere in Oregon CRACKHEADS like this come a di...
Downtown Portland, Oregon
Downtown Portland, Oregon
Cascade Ale. Photo by Blitzo.
Cascade Ale. Photo by Blitzo.
Elk River, inland a bit from Port Orford.
Elk River, inland a bit from Port Orford.
Crater Lake, Oregon. Photo by Blitzo.
Crater Lake, Oregon. Photo by Blitzo.
Crater Lake. Photo by Blitzo.
Crater Lake. Photo by Blitzo.
Mount Washington, 1976. Photo by Blitzo.
Mount Washington, 1976. Photo by Blitzo.
     THE CATHEDRAL at RATTLESNAKE The route is Ara...
BETA PHOTO: THE CATHEDRAL at RATTLESNAKE The route is Ara...
Three sisters taken from Mt. Jefferson. Summer 200...
Three sisters taken from Mt. Jefferson. Summer 200...
South Sister. Photo by Blitzo.
South Sister. Photo by Blitzo.
Adidas Village, Portland
Adidas Village, Portland

Comments on Oregon Add Comment
Show which comments
By JamieB
Jun 23, 2009
If you're in or around Portland, OR, come on out this Thursday, June 25th. Keith Daellenbach will be discussing the Madrone Wall Preservation Committee's 12-year fight to create a public park at Portland's premier rock climbing area, which is currently closed to access.

Learn how YOU can help save this civic treasure and create a new Clackamas County park.

See the Committee's details here:
savemadrone.org/

Keith will do a Q&A after the formal presentation, and FREE door prizes will be raffled too. Come by the Mountain Hardwear store at 722 SW Taylor Street the talk starts at 6 pm.

More details are here:

mountainhardwear.com/Events.as...

Full disclosure: I work with Mountain Hardwear, but thought you guys would be interested to hear about this event.
By Peter Franzen
Administrator
From: Phoenix, AZ
Jun 23, 2009
Thanks for the heads-up on that Jamie!
By alpine glower
From: Soon to be Sweet Home, OR
Aug 29, 2010
To all those who keep posting areas with no drections and saying PM me or what ever nonsense... please stop! This is pointless. If you want someone to visit your area, post directions, thats the point of this site. Half the areas on here seem to be private with directions only given if you jump through some hoops. If thats the case don't post em on here!
By peachy spohn
Jul 28, 2011
Don't forget that there is a fee now for Beacon Rock. $10 per day or a $30 for an annual pass that is good for all Wash. State Parks.
By Ken Trout
From: Golden, CO
Dec 19, 2011
Welcome to Oregon Alpine Glower. The secret area thing cracks me up too, even though the Trout's have been here for a century. I posted a swimming hole for ya. The Elk River is a few miles north of Port Orford. Drive at least 6 miles up the river before the good holes begin appearing. There's climbing along the coast too, but the rock and anchors are usually horrible. Shoot me an email about anywhere and I'll help you spill the beans on the Proj.
By Mr. Holmes
From: Cascade West
Apr 5, 2012
A quick update regarding rumors surrounding the Rat Cave closure:

I spoke with USFS and yes,it is on their radar... however:

1) No, the crag is not closed to recreational use (this includes climbing); Access is still open.

2) USFS interaction has and will stem priamarily from concerns surrounding new route development (bolting/fixed anchors) and overall human impact.
They will be monitoring this site in the months/seasons to come!

3) The local USFS office is aware of the national MOU with the Access Fund and will connect with me directly regarding any future decisions or concerns though they are currently pleased with the " level of support and collaboration" from the Access Fund, as well as, the local climbing community.

This said, If you climb at the Rat Cave PLEASE KEEP A LOW PROFILE. If you don't.. then I hear "The Gullies" are splendid this time of year!
By pacowen
Jun 3, 2013
Anyone ever go up to Lowell crag outside of Eugene.20 or so routes up there 5-10 and harder