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 ADVANCED
Middle Earth
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Afterthought TR 
Anduril S,TR 
Art Imitates Life S 
Art of the Pissant S 
Big Kahuna S 
Black Rider S,TR 
Caradhras T 
Cirith Ungol T 
Dimrill Stair T 
Dwarrowdelf T 
Easy Rider S,TR 
Fangorn Crack T,TR 
Fool's Gold S 
Gandalf T 
Glamdring S 
Isengard S 
Karmic Relief S 
Khazaddum S 
Little Bruiser T 
Lord of the Rings S 
Marranon T,TR 
Merryanne TR 
Middle Finger TR 
Nameless Left of Dimrill Stair T,S 
Nameless Right of Shadowfax TR 
Nameless to the right of Fools Gold T,TR 
Orange Sunshine S 
Orc T 
Orthanc S 
Out on a Whim T 
Radagast T 
Risky Business T,S 
Rock Wrestling T 
Rocking the Dalai Lama S 
Room With A View T 
Sam I Am S 
Shadowfax T 
Shelob's Lair T 
Slice & Dice T 
Smeagol's Surprise T 
Strider TR 
Unsorted Routes:

Orc 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 35'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Mike Paul, Galen Kirkwood Pre-1990
Page Views: 798
Submitted By: Kyle Wills on Mar 29, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
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41- Orc 39- Cirith Ungol ( fun 5.6)

Current San Diego County Advisories MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Offwidth crack, with notable hand s-crack that gets you off the ground. Found it to be difficult for the grade, although I am not a proficient Offwidth climber. Crux occurs near the top as crack continue to widen.

Location 

One of the last climbs on top of the Middle Earth region. Look for the wide crack the continues to widen at the top.

Protection 

3 and larger. Be prepared to walk a 6 if you only have one. Bolt Anchors at top


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By Josh Cameron
From: Moab, Colorado
Mar 28, 2012
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Great offwidth training; makes me feel like I'm in Yosemite. I led it with a #5 C4 down low and placed a #2 Metolius in the flake inside the offwidth near the top. I think a #6 would protect it much better than my #5 did, but it seems a 6 would also get in the way.

Towards the top when you think you've lost all hope, look for a good foot on the face out left.

For such a short climb it felt very airy due to its location high on the hillside.