Home - Destinations - iPhone/Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Strone Crag
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Cost of Business 
Creaking Plank 
Firefly 
Kiss the Sky 
Le Rap Et Tap 
Mad Calf Disease 
Major Tom 
Minotaur 
Mr. Bad Luck 
Nimbus 
Old Habits Die Hard 
Orbital Decay 
Rear-View Mirrors 
Red Gorilla 
Space Cadet 
Starstruck 
Wealth of Nations 

Orbital Decay 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6b [details]
FA: John Steiger, June 2012
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 408
Submitted By: John Steiger on Jun 20, 2012
Good Page? 0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
BETA PHOTO: Strone Crag, showing Obrital Decay (yellow), Creak...

Description 

Orbital Decay climbs a bolt line that catches the right edge of the huge roof band that cuts across the center buttress of Strone Crag. Three bolts protect gently overhanging climbing to a short slab under the roof band. Once below the roof, stretch high, clip another bolt just over the lip (consider using locking biners on the draw), then cut loose onto committing moves to get established on the face above. Three more bolts protect less than vertical but enjoyable face climbing to the anchors. Although the route has some funky rock in the first few body lengths and inconsistent difficulty, spectacular position and exciting climbing make this the best of the 12s on Strone Crag. (Thanks to Brent, Chip, and Derek for the belays on this and the lines to the right).


Location 

Walk east on the ledge system from which Starstruck starts until the ledge begins to peter out in the vicinity of Creaking Plank. Downclimb maybe 15 feet to a lower ledge. Above should be a belay bolt, with three more bolts above that on broken-looking and increasingly overhanging rock leading to the large roof described above.


Protection 

Seven draws, plus draws for the anchors (Metolius rap hangers). An airy 90-foot lower or rap will get you back to the lower ledge mentioned under location.



Comments on Orbital Decay Add Comment
Show which comments
By tenesmus
Jun 21, 2012

Nice work John!