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Lower Jungle
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A Fez for Your Monkey 
Allelopathy Arete 
Axl Rose's Intro 
Bad Banana Dreams 
Baloo's Nightmare 
Blue Collar Ape 
Broad Bagert Crack 
Bungle in the Jungle 
Coco's Lichen It 
Concrete Jungle 
Congo Crack 
Daniel Quinn 
Diverging Evolution 
Dr. Livingstone, I Presume? 
Flaky Chimp 
Funky Monkey 
Gooseberry Corner 
Great Rift Valley 
Hey Hey We're The Monkeys 
Homo cragus 
Java Man 
Jungle Boogie 
King Kong 
Kipling's Short Story 
Knuckle Draggers Needed 
Missing Link, The 
Monkey Business 
Monkey Fist 
Monkey Trick 
Nairobi 
Nit Picking 
Opposable Thumbs Required 
Oranguterror 
Pygmy 
Restless Natives 
Rikki-Tikki-Tavi 
Rudyard Kipling 
Shere Khan 
Star of Astoroth 
Stross vs. Kipling 
Tyger, Tyger, Burning Bright. 
Upton Sinclair 
Welcome to the Jungle 
Your Bones Will Crack 

Oranguterror 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5c R

   
Type:  Sport, Alpine, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Roy Suggett, Rich Magner, Pat Curry
New Route: Yes
Season: May to October
Page Views: 1,400
Submitted By: Roy Suggett on Jul 21, 2009
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Organuterror

Description 

This sport route has become even better as the thin edges lost the lichen. The second clip is important! This is the crux and if you peel after pulling rope prior to the clip...there is a possibility of hitting something hard on the fall. The stance is what we all thought was the best option, but still...be careful!


Location 

This face is just right of a right facing dihedral with the crack called "Coco's Lichen It." This is the last of the routes in the "Congo Corner."


Protection 

Quick draws to shuts.



Photos of Oranguterror Slideshow Add Photo
Second bolt on this picture is the crux. The edges are now clean of lichen.
BETA PHOTO: Second bolt on this picture is the crux. The edges...
Rap bolters are weak
Rap bolters are weak
Oranguterror. As long as you don't blow the second bolt this route is very well bolted and super classic. I loved it!
Oranguterror. As long as you don't blow the second...
Red is Oranguterror <br />Yellow is Coco's Lichen It
BETA PHOTO: Red is Oranguterror
Yellow is Coco's Lichen It
Comments on Oranguterror Add Comment
Show which comments
By Pat C
From: Honolulu
Jul 23, 2009

Absolutely covered in lichen. Will become more like 10d with more ascents.

Real FA: Roy Suggett, Rich Magner, Pat Curry

By LeMiz
Sep 14, 2010
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c

Super classic. Loved it!

By Boissal
From: Small Lake, UT
Oct 15, 2010
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ E3 5c PG13

Out of curiosity, was this bolted on lead? The pic seems to indicate otherwise, just checking. Is the rock too chossy down low to avoid the R rating? Or is it artificially runout?

By Roy Suggett
Oct 18, 2010

Thanks Boissal for checking us out! The crack to the left was put up on lead. As we rapped down the face we noticed how good the rock was and gave it a go. The first bolt was easy but the second was really hard and nobody had at the time a brush to deal with the lichen...so we went back up the crack and plotted the moves and where the best bolt placements might be. The second clip is the crux. We debated long and hard but decided in the late hours of the day to place the bolt higher than we liked but on a more comforatable stance. And so it goes with the Jungle...all cracks are from the ground up, the faces are mostly combo.s of both practices.

By Pat C
From: Honolulu
Nov 14, 2010

The reason this climb is R rated is that I almost cracked my head open at the second bolt. It happened during my first lead on this route, I was super gripped, and not thinking clearly. I was fully extended, trying to clip for like 30 seconds, then I missed it, and took a wild windmill swing that not only brought me very close to the ground, but brought my head very close to an edge. This mistake can be avoided by almost any clear minded individual. Just pull on gear, and try again. Don't be a purist and get yourself killed. I actually wouldn't give this climb an R rating, even though I almost smashed my head up on it.

By rich magner
From: cathedral city, ca
Nov 20, 2010

This one is a little spicy to reach the first bolt. PG-13 perhaps? Yes, Pat did almost crack his head, but was super out of position. He's hard-headed though. The rock would've been dust.


The decision to top - rope, work potential routes, find placements, then drill- came out of necessity. The dichotomous nature of this formation ranges from stellar to nasty and rotten. A TR allowed us to test the rock, check for 'booby traps', and avoid face-fulls of gravity powered rhyolite goulash.

Enjoy.

By Pat C
From: Honolulu
Nov 24, 2010

Thanks Rich, I appreciate the support. Anyhow, I tried to post a video of some of the"choss" that consisted of a 300 lb. rock being pealed off the top of one of the better routes. So, I will say that I support the top down bolting methods.

By Boissal
From: Small Lake, UT
Sep 6, 2011
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ E3 5c PG13

Awesome face line, sustained, technical, big moves, clean rock...

I can now comment on my comment: not R, although the first 2 clips are definitely not something you'd want to fumble. I started on the arete to the right and didn't breathe much until I latched the big shelf up and right of the 2nd bolt. Think bouldery climbing on small crimps/sidepulls with lots of body tension and a mediocre clipping hold. Did I mention it is an AWESOME LINE???
The top keeps coming at you and even though the holds get better the occasional slopper will keep you on your toes.

EDIT: one vote for extending this beast to the TOP OF THE TOWER!

By rich magner
From: cathedral city, ca
Oct 20, 2011

On it...when it thaws out!