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i. Orangutan Buttress
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Dirty Sanchez S 
Orangutan T,TR 


YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c PG13

Type:  Trad, TR, 2 pitches, 75'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: George Austin and Roland Machold, 1954
Page Views: 184
Submitted By: Justin Johnsen on Feb 27, 2012

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The original of Orangutan continues to see little traffic.

P1: 45 feet, 5.3 R
P2: 30 feet, 5.8 PG

Starts in a 9' corner, 25 feet right of the Long Chimney on Open Face. Go up three ledges using easy rock, keeping right towards the end to belay. Pitch 2 keeps right and goes through the so-called "Crack of Doom."


Up the middle of Orangutan Buttress, between Open Face and the Great Zawn.


Standard rack. Runout start. A pair of belay/rappel chains is on the ledge at the top of the first pitch. Haven't confirmed what's on top of the cliff for an anchor these days.

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