Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Orange Crush
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Anaconda-Da-Vida 
Black Mamba 
British Airways 
Buried Treasure 
Captain Hook 
Chinese Water Torture 
Citrasolve 
Crusher, The 
Drillary Step, The 
Dynosoar 
Flying Monkeys 
King Cobra 
Lions and Tigers and Bears 
Oh My! finish 
Opportunist, The 
Orangahang 
Orange Crush (retro-bolted) 
Orange Sunshine 
Original Orange Crush, The 
Peter Pan 
Predator 
Prime Climb 
Purple Microdot 
Sir Edmond Drillary 
Tin Man 
Tin Monkeys 
Tinkerbell 
Tropicana 
Vaporizer, The 
White Snake 

Orange Sunshine 

YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ British: MS 4a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ British: MS 4a [details]
FA: Bradley White and Bill Hardigan, early '80s
Page Views: 1,727
Submitted By: BrianWinslow on Aug 21, 2007
Good Page? 0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (39)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Orange Sunshine :: 5.5
Photo by Ryan Chan

Description 

I really like this route, it appears to be a mossy, easy climb from the ground, and it is, but it really has some interesting moves for the grade and a great flow. Also, it's clean where you will be climbing so you can avoid the lichen. It's fun to set up a TR for a new climber and then to see if you can clean it in under a minute.

It starts from the big boulder at the bottom of the clif, beginning down near and just left of the start of the Bullwinkle climbs, up the boulder and on to the tall slabby face, angling left to the top corner, and then back right to the anchors. Fun face climbing.


Location 

The bottom right of the Orange Crush clif, on the wall which is purpendicular to the rest of the clif. Just to the right of Purple Microdot, starting off of a large boulder on the ground.


Protection 

10 bolts to the anchors. Belay and start just left of the Bullwinkle routes, heading up the big boulder then stepping onto the slabby face.
Watch the end of your rope when lowering!



Photos of Orange Sunshine Slideshow Add Photo
lily on Orange sunshine before linking to Purple Microdot
lily on Orange sunshine before linking to Purple M...
Jess climbing Orange Sunshine
Jess climbing Orange Sunshine
Comments on Orange Sunshine Add Comment
Show which comments
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Nov 26, 2007
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V S 4b

It is good to belay from down right towards Bullwinkle as you suggest. When it was last retroed the bolts were placed for that approach and you no longer have to clip in to avoid being pulled into the hole. FA was by Bradley White and partner.

By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Sep 1, 2009
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V S 4b

there is actually 9 bolts on this awesome route, the crux is at the last bolt and is deceptive, I don't believe it is 5.5 but maybe once you figure the move out it is, either way a really fun climb

By nataliejwong
From: Toronto, Canada
Aug 29, 2010
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V S 4b

I climbed over the boulder where there's a big scary hole, but I think I was suppose to start from the base of the boulder to make my way up to the first bolt. It was difficult to clip the second last draw that's right before the blueberry bush. Didn't have enough reach. That's probably the crux of the route. Overall, good route (5.6ish), and amazing view when you reach the very top of the climb.

By Jeffrey LeCours
From: New Hampshire
Jul 20, 2012

"Bill Hardigan and I did the climb in the early 80's. The top off into Blueberry bushes was the hardest part."

Comment by bradley white on July 13th, 2008 4:56 am

By J Meagher
Oct 24, 2012
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ MS 4a

Really fun slab climbing, surprisingly clean, and the moves flow. I had my belayer stand on the ground next to bullwinkle and clipped the bolt on the boulder as a point of protection. I found it very fun and exciting for the grade until the 8th or 9th bolt, where it was absolutely soaked, which immediately took the fun out of it. Is this route usually wet, and how long does it take to dry after a rain?

By Matt Wilson
From: Bethel, Vermont, USA
Apr 21, 2013
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V S 4b

Got on this today, a tad wet at the top at the crux, but it was certainly a fun climb.

By Matt Wilson
From: Bethel, Vermont, USA
Apr 26, 2013
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V S 4b

Warning: very long and boring video-