I really like this route, it appears to be a mossy, easy climb from the ground, and it is, but it really has some interesting moves for the grade and a great flow. Also, it's clean where you will be climbing so you can avoid the lichen. It's fun to set up a TR for a new climber and then to see if you can clean it in under a minute.
It starts from the big boulder at the bottom of the clif, beginning down near and just left of the start of the Bullwinkle climbs, up the boulder and on to the tall slabby face, angling left to the top corner, and then back right to the anchors. Fun face climbing.
The bottom right of the Orange Crush clif, on the wall which is purpendicular to the rest of the clif. Just to the right of Purple Microdot, starting off of a large boulder on the ground.
10 bolts to the anchors. Belay and start just left of the Bullwinkle routes, heading up the big boulder then stepping onto the slabby face. Watch the end of your rope when lowering!
By M Sprague Administrator From: New England Nov 26, 2007 rating: 5.64c14VS 4b
It is good to belay from down right towards Bullwinkle as you suggest. When it was last retroed the bolts were placed for that approach and you no longer have to clip in to avoid being pulled into the hole. FA was by Bradley White and partner.
there is actually 9 bolts on this awesome route, the crux is at the last bolt and is deceptive, I don't believe it is 5.5 but maybe once you figure the move out it is, either way a really fun climb
By nataliejwong From: Toronto, Canada Aug 29, 2010 rating: 5.64c14VS 4b
I climbed over the boulder where there's a big scary hole, but I think I was suppose to start from the base of the boulder to make my way up to the first bolt. It was difficult to clip the second last draw that's right before the blueberry bush. Didn't have enough reach. That's probably the crux of the route. Overall, good route (5.6ish), and amazing view when you reach the very top of the climb.
Really fun slab climbing, surprisingly clean, and the moves flow. I had my belayer stand on the ground next to bullwinkle and clipped the bolt on the boulder as a point of protection. I found it very fun and exciting for the grade until the 8th or 9th bolt, where it was absolutely soaked, which immediately took the fun out of it. Is this route usually wet, and how long does it take to dry after a rain?
By Matt Wilson From: Bethel, Vermont, USA Apr 21, 2013 rating: 5.64c14VS 4b
Got on this today, a tad wet at the top at the crux, but it was certainly a fun climb.
By Matt Wilson From: Bethel, Vermont, USA Apr 26, 2013 rating: 5.64c14VS 4b