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Orange Peel Area
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Orange Peel 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Garth McGee
Page Views: 2,811
Submitted By: Steve Marr on Oct 12, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (17)
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Krishna, on Orange Peel

Description 

This route is located left of the prominent orange wall that contains two bolted face routes. Orange Peel starts off a couple of blocks against the base of the wall and climbs a thin finger crack in a left facing corner. After a slick start, work up the thin crack using intermittent and shallow finger holds � the majority of the crack is tips at best. There are some good flakes a little over half way to the top that offer solid climbing a good holds on the face. Once above these flakes, its easy climbing to the anchors. Rap with one rope. You can easily top rope this route, but there will be some rope drag across the low angle rock near the anchors


Protection 

Standard rack with an emphasis on small gear (TCUs and small Aliens)



Photos of Orange Peel Slideshow Add Photo
Greg and I, trying Orange Peel Trad. It requires small/micro stoppers, tri-camp, and cams. It gets easier after the first 25-ish feet.
BETA PHOTO: Greg and I, trying Orange Peel Trad. It requires s...
Comments on Orange Peel Add Comment
Show which comments
By Joshua Merriam
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 29, 2007

This was the first 5.10 lead at E-rock!
and for good reason.

If you are Toproping this route, the best thing to do is plug two cams into the flake once the angle eases, and TR off that. and then when you are done, finish to the anchors.

By marc rosenthal
From: San Antonio, TX
Aug 21, 2007

One of my favorites as well. It calls for real delicacy in the first 20 feet particularly if you have big hands. Small wires (or aliens which had not been invented when I led it) are great here, my only caution is that one should be concerned to not place pro where you will need to put fingers.

By Garth Magee
Aug 5, 2012

I recall my first ascent day, in the spring of 1976, I believe. We really had no idea what 5.10 was at the time, as none of the locals had any 5.10 experience. I got focused, tightened up the EB's, and hoped the thin stoppers would hold. Note that at the urging of the ground crowd, I did not step left at the rest midway up. No one could second that day, and had to collect the gear on rappel.

I recall that Jeff Lowe came through Austin a couple of weeks later, and we took him to Orange Peel as the first climb of the day. I recall his comment, “Seemed a bit hard for 5.9”.

Garth Magee

By Johnny Y
From: California
Apr 16, 2013
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Strenuous to put pros, nuts are best but I used the small metolius down low to avoid fiddling with gear. Lots of good spots to smear your right foot outside of the corner. Heady lead

By Garth Magee
Jun 27, 2013

Just to update the history, as I recall now, it is quite likely that my first ascent occurred in the fall of 1975.

By Superclimber
Feb 6, 2014
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Move for move the 5.10a grade seems fair. But wiggling in stoppers from those thin edges and tiny nubs makes it feel tougher. One of Erock's über classics and a tricky lead.