|East Walls/Bat Cave
|Type: ||Sport, 1 pitch, 70'|
|FA: ||Matt Samet, Dave Pegg, Bill Ramsey, Katie Cavicchio|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Page Views: ||403|
|Submitted By: ||Anonymous Coward on Jun 23, 2003|
|Good Page?||0 people like this page. Your opinion: |
This is the first route you'll come to in this sector, and climbs a very orange vertical face past 10 bolts. As you round the bend past the second big pillar, you'll head steeply uphill on a slidey scree slope into an alcove with four routes. This is the leftmost route.
Yup, yup, I know, there's a much more famous (and probably much better) Orange Mechanique in Cimai, France (8a), but I couldn't come up with a better name.
The bolts are a little more closely spaced on this one than most Fortress routes due to the stucco-like texture of the rock, which could tear your knees up and elbows up pretty good in a fall. The holds themselves, however, aren't too sharp. This sort of climbs like a Shelf Road route.
Treating the crumbly pockets gently, stretch high for the first bolt, clip a second, then move slightly up and left to the third. Turn a small roof, then onto the orange face, which grows increasingly harder and more technical the higher you get. (It begins to overhang just a bit, too.)
A decent pocket near the arete gives you a shake before the redpoint (pump) crux moving into the grey rock. Climbing on water pockets and grey incuts takes you to the anchors, at the base of a dihedral.
Best done on cool-weather days and with a good, stiff pair of shoes. Sustained.
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