Type: | Sport, 70 ft (21 m) |
FA: | Matt Samet, Dave Pegg, Bill Ramsey, Katie Cavicchio |
Page Views: | 1,428 total · 6/month |
Shared By: | Anonymous Coward on Jun 22, 2003 |
Admins: | Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure
Details
Voluntary seasonal falcon closure notice for the Fortress of Solitude from February 15- July 31. The closures are route specific. The central super routes (Daily Planet to Flex Luthor) are open. Once nesting has been determined routes may open. No new routing (noisy power drills) can happen during this time period even in the open areas of the main cave. Any routes east of the main cave remain open. Please no caching of gear on Forest Service land. The Forest Service has been very cooperative in establishing this plan; please be responsible.The specific routes to be closed are listed below with numbers from the Rifle/ Western Slope Wolverine Publishing guide book.
For the left aerie: The Sandman (not in guide) 5. Lois Lame 8. Blind Date. For the right aerie: Ironman (not in guide) Snake Woman (not in guide) 17. The Kalous Logan 18.The Fuck Up
-Bryan Gall
For the left aerie: The Sandman (not in guide) 5. Lois Lame 8. Blind Date. For the right aerie: Ironman (not in guide) Snake Woman (not in guide) 17. The Kalous Logan 18.The Fuck Up
-Bryan Gall
Access Issue: Closures from February 15- August 15
Details
The closures as of now are route specific. In the main cave of the Fortress the whole west wall, gothdrome, and east wall/ bat cave areas are closed with nesting sites above those areas. Only the central super routes (Daily Planet to Flex Luthor) are open. Once nesting has been determined routes may open. No new routing (noisy power drills) can happen during this time period even in the open area. Avoid loud noises if at all possible. Routes east of the main cave are open. Please no caching of gear on Forest Service land. The forest service has been great in working out a very climber friendly management plan please be responsible!
Description
This is the first route you'll come to in this sector, and climbs a very orange vertical face past 10 bolts. As you round the bend past the second big pillar, you'll head steeply uphill on a slidey scree slope into an alcove with four routes. This is the leftmost route.
Yup, yup, I know, there's a much more famous (and probably much better) Orange Mechanique in Cimai, France (8a), but I couldn't come up with a better name.
The bolts are a little more closely spaced on this one than most Fortress routes due to the stucco-like texture of the rock, which could tear your knees up and elbows up pretty good in a fall. The holds themselves, however, aren't too sharp. This sort of climbs like a Shelf Road route.
Treating the crumbly pockets gently, stretch high for the first bolt, clip a second, then move slightly up and left to the third. Turn a small roof, then onto the orange face, which grows increasingly harder and more technical the higher you get. (It begins to overhang just a bit, too.)
A decent pocket near the arete gives you a shake before the redpoint (pump) crux moving into the grey rock. Climbing on water pockets and grey incuts takes you to the anchors, at the base of a dihedral.
Best done on cool-weather days and with a good, stiff pair of shoes. Sustained.
Yup, yup, I know, there's a much more famous (and probably much better) Orange Mechanique in Cimai, France (8a), but I couldn't come up with a better name.
The bolts are a little more closely spaced on this one than most Fortress routes due to the stucco-like texture of the rock, which could tear your knees up and elbows up pretty good in a fall. The holds themselves, however, aren't too sharp. This sort of climbs like a Shelf Road route.
Treating the crumbly pockets gently, stretch high for the first bolt, clip a second, then move slightly up and left to the third. Turn a small roof, then onto the orange face, which grows increasingly harder and more technical the higher you get. (It begins to overhang just a bit, too.)
A decent pocket near the arete gives you a shake before the redpoint (pump) crux moving into the grey rock. Climbing on water pockets and grey incuts takes you to the anchors, at the base of a dihedral.
Best done on cool-weather days and with a good, stiff pair of shoes. Sustained.
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