This is one of the classic climbs at Lumpy, it has varied spicy climbing the whole way. The first pitch begins at the southeast corner of the Bookend. Look for an obvious corner capped by a large triangular roof 40 feet up.
P1. Lieback up the 5.8 dihedral to the bottom of the roof and undercling the entire length of the roof, .10a or b. The holds on this section are all really positive, but the feet suck, make sure to place pro after the crux for the second. Belay at a bolt anchor by an obvious tree on the left.
Variation: climb up until you're about 5' below the roof, place pro, and downclimb about 10'. Then do a rising traverse left (5.9) to the edge of the roof.
P2. The second pitch is short. Continue up the crack on 5.8 climbing and angle up right on an easy face to the base of a large flake. Belay at some slings.
P3. For the third (also short) pitch head right around a blunt arete and do a 5.8 foot traverse. This part is pretty runout (30' or 40' fall potential) for both the leader and second. At the end of the traverse squeeze up an easy wide crack and jam a 30' 5.7 hand crack to a belay in a corner.
P4. For the fourth short pitch, traverse straight left on an amazing 5.7 flake. This traverse is about 40', really exposed, and really easy. Belay off #2 Camalots at the end of the traverse.
P5. For the fifth pitch, climb up a runout 5.8 crack. #3 and #4 Camalots could help on this section.
P6. For the final pitch do a typical flared lumpy chimney (the most strenuous 5.7 you will ever do) to its top.
Then scramble a rope length of 5.0 stuff to the very top of the rock.
This is an awesome varied route, although it is six pitches, they are all very short, we did in a couple hours. Be prepared for several spots of runout 5.8.
Bring a standard rack; #3 and #4 Camalots can help out on the last 5.8 pitch.
|By Tony B|
From: Around Boulder, CO
Nov 6, 2001
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Isn't that 4th pitch a traverse to the leader's left? Also, I agree that the last pitch slot sure is hard for a 5.7.
Feb 25, 2002
The normal way to do the hand traverse is rtl, but there is a nice variation to this route that brings you up to where you can do it ltr, and skip the runout 5.8 traverse. Instead of doing the traverse, move almost straight up and slightly left in discontinuous cracks (I'm guessing 5.9) and then up a nice 5.8 crack until you get to the hand traverse. I've done this route once each way, and I actually think the variation is neater!
|By Luke Clarke|
May 5, 2002
....This traverse pitch is the only one on the climb that is easier than it looks -- the footholds are small but the horizontal crack is as positive as a handrail. And the exposure is sweet. It's a ton easier than the chimney finish to P5, also rated 5.7. Don't skip this one.
|By David Conlin|
May 6, 2003
I don't know what the fuss is all about: I didn't think this climb was that great. The first pitch is cool, as is the 5.7 hand traverse LEFT. The chimney is . . . interesting. The rest was mediocre and runout. Not to say it isn't worth doing, but I don't know about 3 STARS!
|By Ivan Rezucha|
From: Fort Collins, CO
May 2, 2004
Finally did this after getting rained off last year and in the mid-80s. Glad to hear others thought the chimney was hard. I was expecting 4th class due to this description in my 86 Scott Kimball guide (see Scott's post 2 posts up): "Make a weird move into the exit chimney, and climb the last 100 feet of 4th class." I realize now he meant, CLIMB the exit chimney, and THEN do the 100 feet of 4th class.
The first pitch traverse left can be done at least 4 ways:
1) Undercling the roof, supposedly 10a, and the least obvious to me, since it looks strenuous.
2) About 10 feet below the roof, traverse on small but positive footholds with not much for your hands, maybe also 10a.
3) 6 feet lower, traverse with your hands on the positive holds, about 5.9.
4) Much lower down, angle up a crack until it ends, meeting variation 3, and supposedly 5.9.
The third pitch traverse to the right scared me silly the first time when I did it as part of Hot Licks. Coming off a thin 5.9 crux into the unprotected traverse, my head was not screwed on straight. Last year, it seemed reasonable. Gear above the belay, and a red Alien at your feet around the corner when you leave the last good handhold. This time, it felt totally easy. There are big but sloped footholds all the way. Still no handholds, though.
|By Anonymous Coward|
May 10, 2004
Did this route on Sunday. Very spicy in parts great variety. Lots of blood from a Previous part under the roof of P1. Made a pretty huge mistake after the hand traverse. Lead the next pitch up the crack above the HT and had to belay in a VERY awkward shallow pod right below the chimney.
|By Steve McCorkel|
Jun 6, 2004
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
It seemed obvious to me to under cling the roof of pitch one because the protection is excellent. I believe we linked pitches two and three, as well as, four, five and six without too much drag.
|By Greg Sievers|
From: Estes Park, CO
Jun 22, 2004
Once you reach the left end of the roof on P1, stem out to the left and place pro in 'that' crack (same one the tree is in) this will redirect your rope away from the roof's pinch corner and thereby avoid any hassles. I concur with Steve: run P2 & 3 together and P5 & 6, then scramble up and right to exit. This will allow you to avoid death by 5.0 rambling.
|By Leo Paik|
From: Westminster, Colorado
Aug 27, 2004
Beware, if rain is likely & you want to try P1/2, bring some 1in webbing. The old sling rap was gone. In yesterday's rain, we threaded 1 sling (had no others), looped 3x24in slings over the flake, & left a locking biner to rap 105ft R of P1. The sling slot is very narrow. Also, a bat/bird lives in that tight slot. :(
|By Leo Paik|
From: Westminster, Colorado
Sep 2, 2004
Fixed my mess at P2 belay. Now it sports 2 slings, 2 rap rings. Seems P3 has hand holds and doesn't seem 5.9 (compared to P1). FWIW belaying on P5 on top of the pinnacle (suggested in verbal description above & in Rossiter's guide) is not comfy. Also, chimney takes a variety of sizes, not just #4s.
Oct 10, 2005
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Finding the traverses left on pitch two and three can be quite a problem here is some help: after pitch two you will see the red slings out right (and up) and another set of slings to your left (and up) do not get sucked into the cracks that lead nicely up to the slings out left, rather stay low, pull over the arete from the dihedral you'd start in and go right, unprotected for 10 ft or so and then hit a horizontal crack that leads easily to the slings and the horn
On p3 DO NOT PULL THE ROOF, this will set you up for a difficult 10-R crack that leads into the center of the classic traverse on p4, rather again stay low and traverse 10 ft of so before some pro and then up in the crack to the belay at p4
The roof is not so bad, but the chimney - oh my...
|By Shane Zentner|
Apr 24, 2006
Orange Julius gives you everything from a strenuous roof traverse to hand cracks to a chimney. The traverse under the roof was challenging due to insecure feet, the protection was good, though, as I sewed it up. Use runners under the roof as the rope kept getting stuck in the crack. I didn't think the chimney pitch was that difficult. Although I grunted my way up the damn thing-the pro here was decent, as the biggest piece that I placed was similar to a #3 Camalot.
|By chris deulen|
From: Merriam, Kansas
Jun 25, 2007
Rossiter's guidebook, RMNP, claims P4 goes at 5.8. What it doesn't say is how much pain you will be in if you've never climbed a flairing offwidth granite chimney before and how much blood you'll lose from your knee if you're not wearing pants. Good god, I felt like this was 5.12, but I guess you can't grade anything harder than 5.10 in Lumpy Ridge.
From: Fort Collins, CO
Sep 16, 2008
I pulled over the top of the 5.8 section on pitch 5 (after THE classic traverse pitch) to find a chimney. This was a surprise to me. I led the chimney with nothing bigger than a #2 Camalot, but would not recommend it. Make sure you have a few big pieces going into this pitch (#4 & #5 C4 size). It is consistent with 5.6 / 5.7 grade at Vedauwoo if you are familiar with some of the chimney pitches there. Beyond the top of this pitch there is still 60m+ of easy climbing to the top.
Oh, and for pitch 2 make sure to leave the belay from P1 (just past the lip of the roof) and join back into the crack as it comes up from the roof. We went up and left from the belay and ended up doing a rather runout traverse to the right from the crack system over to the belay at the top of P2. This was significantly harder and more run out than the "R" section of P3.
Fun route... enjoy!!
|By W. Spaller|
Jul 23, 2009
If you plan on doing the under cling roof variation on the first pitch be very careful not to get your rope stuck, which I did and had to do some very sketch ball down climbing. Just don't place a piece of gear at the left end of the roof and place a piece a little lower that the roof in the hand crack to the left. The resulting rope drag will suck but it will keep your rope for getting stuck. But very fun pitch with insecure well protected climbing.