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The Far East
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Orange Crush 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Sport
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a [details]
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Page Views: 2,862
Submitted By: Andrew Tower on Jul 4, 2007
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Description 

Orange Crush is the furthest route East on the crag. Situated right next to the barbed wire fence. OC is the longest route in HCR and super fun with a great view when you finish.


Location 

Farthest East on the Far East Crag right next to the barbed wire fence.


Protection 

draws (about 14 of em) two bolt anchor.



Photos of Orange Crush Slideshow Add Photo
The view from a ledge near the top. What a beaut!
The view from a ledge near the top. What a beaut!
Orange Crush w/ Austin Fisher
Orange Crush w/ Austin Fisher
Comments on Orange Crush Add Comment
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By Andy Chasteen
From: Oklahoma City, OK
Jan 25, 2008

Who has 14 draws?
Cool route with a tricky little crux in the middle.
Don't fall on the barbed wire fence.

By JulSan
May 28, 2009
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a

If you are in the area, do take the time to check out "Orange Crush." It is one of those "must do fun climbs" at the HCR regardless of grade ratings.

May want to stick clip the first bolt hanger due to its bouldery start and close proximity to the wire fence which marks the property's boundary line (on the right).

By jeremy ward
From: las vegas, nevada
Jan 17, 2011

It's 14 bolts but a few can easily and safely be skipped due to the fact that super easy moves and bolts every 4-5 feet in places exist. Don't be discouraged if you don't have a whopping 14 draws.

By cfittell
From: Lawrence, KS
Apr 21, 2011

If you don't have 14 draws, grab the draw at your feet after you make a clip. Lots of ledges and close bolts make this easy to do if you're not comfortable running it out.

By Carl Sherven
Jan 21, 2012
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

I didn't enjoy this climb, but the view at the top makes it worth climbing once. Bring your camera.

By Spenser Bolte
Jun 13, 2012
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a

  • **BETA WARNING***

The crux (pulling the small roof a third of the way up) will feel pretty stiff to the 5.9 climber. I feel like a foot broke since the first time I did it, could be wrong though. Jam your hand under the roof and look for a jug farther right than you'd expect.

By Drew Nevius
From: Oklahoma
Jun 27, 2012
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

I'll second what everyone else said about skipping bolts. Because of clipping stances, I usually skip the 2nd bolt on this route (though that risks falling on the fence) because I can already reach the 3rd by the time I would clip the 2nd.

  • *BETA WARNING**

At the crux, moving left around the arete, I thought I remember doing a layback move until I could reach the jug above. Spenser may be right about the holds out right though.. It's been at least a year since I've been on it.

By Luke Stollings
From: Austin, TX
Apr 16, 2014

I remember this route is long -- is a 60-meter rope enough? What about a 50?

By Gavin Echterling
Apr 16, 2014
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a

@Luke - We used a 60m rope and that worked just fine. I believe the route is around 70ft high, at that you're looking at 140ft of rope approx so you'll likely have enough with 50m but if you've got a 60 bring that to be safe.