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Nancy and Keith in a sea of quickdraws. Upper left...
Description This large and complex cliff sits relatively high on the hill. For that reason, Orange Crush is an excellent choice on hot days, as the wind tends to cool the cliff.
The left side of the cliff is very steep, almost horizontal. Farther right, the angle lessens but the routes get longer. Therefore, the climbing at Orange Crush varies from horizontal roof problems to technical vertical faces.
Because of the sketchy composition of the rock on Orange Crush, many of the routes required massive cleaning projects before their first ascents. This is not to say that the rock is bad, as the routes have improved with numerous ascents. The routes range from 5.8 to 5.13b, with must do classics including: Tropicana 11a, Black Mamba 11b, The Crusher 11d, and Rumney's most photogenic route, Predator 13b.
Getting There Orange Crush is most commonly approached from the second, smaller parkinglot. A steep trail leads uphill from the lot and deposits one at New Wave Wall. Orange Crush is the big looming cliff to the left.
Alternatively, Orange Crush may be approached from Main Cliff. Simply skirt the cliff on the right side and head uphill. To reach Orange Crush from the more western crags, follow a trail through the woods from the top of Bonsai.
Note that the left-side routes at Orange Crush all start from a steep "death slab." To approach the slab and the start of routes like The Crusher, Tin Man, and Orangahang, a staircase allows passage over the steep bottom part of the slab. Be extra careful at the base of the aforementioned routes. It's a long way down from the slab.
The ClassicsMountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Orange Crush:
Featured Route For Orange Crush
Lions and Tigers and Bears 5.11b NH : Rumney : Orange Crush
This is a classic wandering line up the weakness in the left side of the cliff. Due to its positioning and line of travel after climbing 20 feet you are way in to the exposed zone and it just gets better as you go.From a large flake clip the first bolt and start up the nice steep juggy holds clipping a few more bolts to a stance. It is helpful to reach back to unclip the first two bolts to reduce rope drag. At this point you are traversing right under a steep wall and as you head right and the g... [more] Browse More Classics in NH
Aryesh on flying monkeys on orange crush. One of ...
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BETA PHOTO: The maps in the guide book always confused me... T...
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lily using the Crusher start to get on to the pred...
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Climber on the shared start of Flying Monkeys, Dyn...
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im starting up Flying monkeys...
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BETA PHOTO: An attempt at sorting out the upper Orange Crush c...
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4 ravens in the nest above Buried Treasure...
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BETA PHOTO: Map of a few routes on the upper left side of the ...
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By James Otey
From: NH
Jun 5, 2007
| A staircase was recently added to allow safe passage over the slab- quite nice if you ask me. |
By Jake D.
From: Northeast
Apr 15, 2010
| I wish there was a way to make the upper part of the trail less sketchy. I don't know if there would be a way to make another set of stairs all the way to the base of Orangahang or not |
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Apr 15, 2010
| Yeah, we could use the AMC trail crew up there some more. To do it right I think we might need some steps like those going up towards Armed and Dangerous after the traverse across the slab. There needs to be a hardened landing zone too where people lower off to, so the steps should probably go through that spot and up since people are naturally going to go up there anyway to get back to their stuff.
I am a little concerned about the area just above the existing ladders since it is built up on a natural log. It was nice work at the time it went in, but it is already showing signs of decay and when that goes there will be a mess. I really liked the stone steps the AMC made just above that, but they only did a short stretch. Hopefully they are planning on coming back. |
By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
May 12, 2010
| Does anyone know why there is an axe in the cave by Orangahang? I slipped under there to avoid a spring rain shower and found an axe... Seemed kinda odd to me |
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
May 12, 2010
| Do you mean like a trail tool or something you would split wood with? |
By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
May 13, 2010
| Yeah an axe to split wood.
I figured it was left there by a trail crew but it looks like it has been there for years... |
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
May 26, 2010
| Climbing the longer routes on this cliff, at least the ones up to 12a is such and intense mental challenge... you find your self pulling hard sections with really good ledge rests between getting more and more tired as you go... the rests almost make it worse cause you have time to ponder the moves above, how far you've come, and the fact that if you blow one move you will have to start from the bottom again at some point... at least you will if you care to go through the mental battle all over again...
I love the mental game... |
By David Savoie
May 21, 2013
| Hi,
I've looked at King Cobra, at Orange Crush, and the route looked different from last year - are there reports that a part of it might have broke ? |
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