Orange Corner  5.10d

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Type:  Trad, 7 pitches, 800 feet, Grade III Consensus:  5.10d [details] FA:  Johnson, Christianson Season:  fall/spring Submitted By:  notmyname on Sep 14, 2008 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

BETA PHOTO: The route in red with belays marked. I suggest no...

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Edit Aug 2010: Just looked in the newer Bingham guide. This is "Orange Corner 10d" NOT south chimney.

We headed up the S. Face basically following what looked like a good line. I haven't a clue if the FA party went this way exactly. Start at the base of the slab left of a left facing dihedral with a mini roof at the top....just past the grove of trees on the approach.
Follow slab, cracks, and face with fun gear placements to the major dihedral you can see from the car. Good times up this part.
Pull a very hard to protect headwall after the corner and slabby do dah to the top. Can be done in less pitches, but rope drag was an issue, as were bees. Rap off with one 70m rope from chains on the other side from the summit - or two single rope raps. Kuda to the FA party if they freed this in the late 60's

Protection 

No fixed gear - all you. Big n' small and in between :)

Photos of Orange Corner Slideshow

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Looking down at Britne on the overhanging 10d corn...